Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys i have a rb27 with 550rwhp and its very very loud with the single 3.5' cannon muffler i have on it at the moment, im after a super quiet sound without restricting flow as much as possible, i know its a hard combination but im willing to sacrifice abit of power to please the local residents and police ;) im going to remove the current cannon and use 2 oval mufflers.

im lookin specifically at the magnaflow race series range and fitting 2 of the 8"x5" oval s/s mufflers with single 4" inlet and 4" outlet, im just worried they wont quieten the noise enough.

heres the link to the ones im talking about...

http://www.magnaflow.com/02product/02race.asp (Part #14153 is the one)

anyone know any other places or brands that have decent mufflers in 4" in and out?

the race series are $116us each

any info appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158335-after-a-good-quality-4-muffler/
Share on other sites

Just get em made if you need something custom or to do a certain job.

There is no reason an exhaust correctly designed will rob you of any power.

I dare say thats what gonna have to happen with my car.

Everything else is custom made so i cant see it being any different for the rest, so it can be done... comes down to price.

And with your setup, cost definately shouldnt be an issue :D

I highly recommed speaking to Hitech mufflers. Australian made custom performance mufflers.

www.hitechmufflers.com.au

I recently change to a 3"hitech and its quiet at idle yet doesnt lose power up top

Also the car doesnt drone as it used to with the old exhaust between 2000-3000rpm

going to muffle that external gate too brad? :happy:

sounded (and smoked :wub:) like a dirty rotary on that cruise!

when are you looking at buying?

ive got a 4" in/4.5" out cannon on mine, but i want to go to a twin tip exhaust, so the dif back part is going.

i run (2) of the 6" diameter round 4" inlet/outlet mufflers on my personal car (RB26 w/ gt42R single turbo). it is quiet and sounds phenomenal.

if you want pics let me know ill post them up

I'd be interested to see them Geoff. Out of interest, which length mufflers did you use and have you had your car noise tested at all ?

I know this is a bit left feild, but in the past i used a truck muffler.

Now before u get all bent out of shape about it.. Donaldson truck stuff is VERY good. If you can track down a catalog, they go into great detail about their stuff. Noise surpression, flow rates, HP figures and all!

I used a 3.5 inch muffler under the back of an old project, and it was the best thing i bought for it! no drone, quiet but a very deep sound. I'm not sure if they make a low profile type, but its worth looking at..

I have not seen ANY other muffler makers do that much detail about their products!

check it out! ohh, most of their range go from 2.5inch to 6 inch!

I'd import a Jasma certified (or not) 5Zigen muffler. Go to 5Zigen's website and contact them they will tell you wat is perfect muffler for your car. I have a 5Zigen Border system and It's quiet when off boost and cruising and only loud when you put your foot down. And then you see other wankers around with crappy cannons and they make drone 24/7.

thanks for all the advice guys im going to give 2 of the magnaflow oval race series mufflers a go as i hate the cannon style ones on the rear and ill be painting mine black for the stealth look. hopefully it shuts it up alot, i found for 2 x magnaflow race series 4' in and out are $513 for the lot delivered from the US so not too bad considering a shop in Perth wanted $500 for one :)

mitchy im not after the cannon look as i said but i will check out yours if u come over on the weekend and see if its alright or not.

cheers

  • 1 year later...
thanks for all the advice guys im going to give 2 of the magnaflow oval race series mufflers a go as i hate the cannon style ones on the rear and ill be painting mine black for the stealth look. hopefully it shuts it up alot, i found for 2 x magnaflow race series 4' in and out are $513 for the lot delivered from the US so not too bad considering a shop in Perth wanted $500 for one :)

mitchy im not after the cannon look as i said but i will check out yours if u come over on the weekend and see if its alright or not.

cheers

Hey mate, how did you go with the magnaflow mufflers on your exhaust? Interested in doing similar.

Shaun.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
×
×
  • Create New...