Jump to content
SAU Community

My Boot Won't Open -help

MRO

By MRO,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

MRO Community Regular

MRO

Posted
Posted

On the weekend i was carrying some paint in the back of my car so i put a towl in the cargo area to protect the boot carpet. After unloading the paint i closed the back door and the towel must have been in the lock area because now i cannot open the back door. I am a bit stuck on how to get the door back open. Any suggestions?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158716-my-boot-wont-open-help/
Share on other sites
captinsane Community Regular

captinsane

Posted
Posted
On the weekend i was carrying some paint in the back of my car so i put a towl in the cargo area to protect the boot carpet. After unloading the paint i closed the back door and the towel must have been in the lock area because now i cannot open the back door. I am a bit stuck on how to get the door back open. Any suggestions?

no idea mate...is it worth trying locking and unlocking it a few times - it may make it worse, or it may make it better, i do not know... Don't kill me if it breaks anything though...

Otherwise all i an suggest is undoing the inside panels from inside the boot to get at the locking mechanism.. all the panels should come off...

Or just call a LOCKSMITH???

Appealing Proficient

Appealing

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hmmm I had the same thing happen once with my '92 Falcon wagon. So I know how you feel.

From memory I worked at it from inside, with a kraft knife to shred the cloth, and a screwdriver to pressure the latch. It was a real bitch. The cloth tends to keep the latch closed and the hatch holds the cloth tight. It may help if you have someone on the outside, to push the tailgate in slightly (so that the latch isn't under the same pressure. I know that mine went very suddenly and then just released (opened). Other than that there isn't much that you can do (or a locksmith come to that). The bolts holding the lock on are underneath the lock. So they wont come out with the door in the closed position. Try having someone hold the handle in the open position while you sit down and put pressure on the bottom of the door with your legs. If you can get at the latch you may be ableto trip it with the screwdriver, or you may have to make a "tool" to enable you to do this.

Bear in mind tht it is only jammed. It should give in the end, after a bucket of sweat!

Best of luck.

Tell you what, I bet it NEVER happens again!! :D

I just realised that you are in Perth, (I think). So if you want to come around and see how the lock works and looks while it is in the open position, PM me.

Edited by Appealing
Ska Grand Master

Ska

Posted
Posted

It might also be the auto closing mechanisim that has jammed, this happned to me once when one of the straps of my kids school bags got caught, I just kept pulling it out, like trying to open the rear door from the outside very harshly and eventually it opened.

But I did notice that once the auto closing mechanisim closed it made a wierd sound, and I looked down and saw the strap right where the locking mechanisim is.........

MRO Community Regular

MRO

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Finally got it open. I must admit i did not try to hard as i havent needed to use the boot too much recently.

I got it opened by getting my wife to push the door from the inside while pulling back on the towel. I was on the outside lifting hard on the handle.

The self closing mechanism doesnt help because normally you would notice this kind of thing when closing the door. As you dont have to slam the door shut it is not until it is too late you notice something is jammed in there.

Topkart R33 Community Regular

Topkart R33

Posted
Posted

For future referances all you need to do is take the plastic trim around the window off, then the locking caps for the carpeted trim and access latch from there. Push down on the part with the yellow bush which has the push rod attached.

  • 3 years later...
Stooge007 Rising Star

Stooge007

Posted
Posted

For future referances all you need to do is take the plastic trim around the window off, then the locking caps for the carpeted trim and access latch from there. Push down on the part with the yellow bush which has the push rod attached.

sorry to bump an old thread, but something is caught in my C34 boot latch, and it won't open

as far as i can tell, you can't take any boot trim off as you can't access any of the screws/pop rivet things?

will try just forcing it open with my feet from the inside (while someone is outside holding the latch open, but putting pressure on the boot toward the car???)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • joshuaho96
      Cas issue

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • joshuaho96
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...