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Ok I finally had my R34 GTT intercooler modified and installed at RE Customs by Ray last week.

Cost $280 to modify and install, with 2 dyno runs. The reason for two runs was that my AFRs were getting a bit lean, so they cleaned my AFM to see if it was the problem. It wasnt, so I'll be installing a r32 gtr fuel pump in the next few weeks to try to fix the problem.

My car:

1992 R32 GTSt Type-M

170000km

old pod filter

3 inch cat back

3 inch split BATMBL dump/front pipe

5 inch metal substrate cat

and now R34 GTT sidemount cooler.

No external boost control (just the stock actuator).

As with Patricks, the duct wasnt installed as it would have needed a lot of modification. If i get the chance i'll have a shot at modifying it to fit.

The first dyno graph is from an SAU dyno day a while ago. I made 128.3 kW, at this stage I just had the cat back and the pod filter. The afrs were crap at first because i was playing around with my Jaycar DFA and had set up the offset wrong... but i unplugged it and all was ok again.

post-1218-1180960289_thumb.jpg

Ok the next two dyno charts are from two seperate occasions, the red line is from another SAU-Vic dyno day earlier this year. As you can see i made 142kW. But my AFRs were way too lean again. This was because i was using United Boost98 petrol (without specific tuning for it). So the moral of the story is dont use it...

post-1218-1180960296_thumb.jpg

post-1218-1180960320_thumb.jpg

The blue/green line is with the R34 cooler installed. I made 155.1kW at the wheels. Boost held constant at about 11psi all the way to red line and there was slightly more power everywhere. But my AFRs are still too lean, even with the AFM cleaned. The fuel filter was only a few thousand kms old too. So hence me looking at getting a new fuel pump.

So to sum it up definately good value for money, at $170 for the cooler and $280 for the mods, install and dyno run. Once the fuel issue is sorted i'll install my Jaycar IEBC (boost controller) at dial in 13psi i think.

Cheers,

Rhett

It'll cost you about $400 just to fit a FMIC alone.

And I'm yet to see a home-installed job that I would be comfortable with driving around with.

My reasons for going this option were:

Dont want to have to get another front bar

Dont want to cut into the front bar i have.

Dont like the look of a FMIC (unless the front bar fits it nicely...)

Dont plan on going for more than about 200 rwkW. (maybe r33 turbo or highflow at some stage)

Didnt want to get defected for FMIC as i already have a pod filter (Vic rules)

I already have a water spray controller i want to try out.

Didnt want to increase throttle response time (what usually happens with FMICs)

Didnt want to cut hole into engine bay near battery.

Cost me $370 all up installed if you dont count the dynos (that i didnt really have to have).

I'd call it great value.

IMHO anyway,

Cheers,

Rhett

But then again I would agree that its a more feasible upgrade for r33s, as no modifications are required.

Bringing it down to just the cost of the cooler ($180) and an hours work or so.

Thanks Rhett for your results!

The r34 smic can handle up to 230kw so i guess that is close enough to your sweet spot Cubes :P

Will be interesting to see the maximum capabilities of the smic further down the track as I will be looking into r33 hi-flow hopefully.

As stated above, if you have a r33 id aim for fmic as the r33 can gain much more power easily and reach max power of the smic. Although you will have to cut holes and possibly engineer reobar/hole if you get caught (which costs $$$)

Quick benefits;

- Less piping than fmic

- r34 SMIC outlet is larger in diameter than r32 smic, which resulted in restriction for stock r32's (possible reason as to gain of power)

- Larger core but small enough to not cause any throttle lag (compared to fmics)

Once i pop in a bosch 040 fuel pump, ill get another dyno run and post up results.

Rhett ill be interested to see your waterspray + airduct shroud if you customize it in :P

One negative thing about the smic is it gets heatsoaked easily.

Unlike fmic's which are freezing cold, after a long hard run the smic is hot on one side and warm on the other side.

They tend to get warm and i think i have felt a couple of times the heatsoak, but cannot confirm as it could be either heat soaked pod or my coil packs.

Would like to hear your results with the new smic on the roads and tracks.

Cheers

Patrick

r34 coolers used to be cheap as chips before all you guys jumped onto the train. My first one costed me $80. my second one was $60. My third was 120. I'd hate to think what the next one will cost.

you think they expensive here, check out the price of them in Japan.

Its a common mod in japan and to import one off yahoo auction will cost over $250 lol

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