Jump to content
SAU Community

Neo R34 Turbo & Jic 3" Front Pipe

Forged
 Share

Recommended Posts

Forged Experienced

Forged

Posted
Posted (edited)

Factory R34 RB25DET Neo Turbo with metal compressor wheel!

The turbo is from a later model GTT (early ones have plastic compressor wheels) which was swapped onto my car (98 GTT) by its Japanese owner before sent off to Australia.

Perfect condition as you can see from the pictures.

An excellent upgrade for R32 GTST. Will make 200rwkw reliably.

Asking $500 SOLD

post-23968-1172838652.jpgpost-23968-1172838593.jpgpost-23968-1172838430.jpgpost-23968-1172838353.jpg

Japanese JIC 3inch mandrel bent front pipe. factory bolt-on for R34 Gtt.

Excellent condition. $180. SOLD

An ideal complement to your existing cat back system.

Gladesville Sydney.

Pickup preferred.

Cheers.

post-23968-1174308948.jpg

post-23968-1174309557.jpg

post-23968-1174309617.jpg

post-23968-1174309919.jpg

post-23968-1174389137.jpg

post-23968-1174389277.jpg

Edited by Forged
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158843-neo-r34-turbo-jic-3-front-pipe/
Share on other sites
Forged Experienced

Forged

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
Isn't the metal wheel slower at spooling?

i dont think you can feel much difference in power delivery(still same housing) while the advantage being stronger and more reliable.

Edited by Forged
Forged Experienced

Forged

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
is the front pipe ganador or JIC? Sorry for the noob question but does one end bolt on to the turbo housing and the other end to the cat?

You are right it is JIC! I've mistaken it with my Ganador catback system, thought they were the same :)

Anyways, yes its a direct replacement for your factory front pipe, one end bolt on to the dump pipe(which is shown in one fo the pictures), other end bolt on to your existing cat.

cheers

Edited by Forged
Forged Experienced

Forged

Posted
  • Author
Posted
How negotiable are you on the prices?

And, is the dump pipe included or is it just the front pipe?

You can give me an offer on price. yes dump pipe included if you want it.

cheers

Forged Experienced

Forged

Posted
  • Author
Posted
how many km's has the turbo done? How confident are you that it is actually the steel wheel version?

well, its not the steel wheel version. from what i can gather, its a series 2 gtt turbo with aluminium compressor and ceramic turbine wheel.

it could be highflowed but im not sure(im not a turbo expert) maybe you can tell from the pictures. if its indeed highflowed then you are getting a bargain. but either way im sure its has a metal compressor wheel not plastic.

MANWHORE Grand Master

MANWHORE

Posted
Posted

It is not a highflow. Definitely not. The compressor housing still has the groove in it. At the end of the day, metal or bakelite, it's the same thing. the comressor wheel never goes. It's always the exhaust wheel that dies.

The bakelite ocmpressor wheel is actually better. It has faster spool.

Forged Experienced

Forged

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
The bakelite ocmpressor wheel is actually better. It has faster spool.

Well, each have they own advantages. I dont think you could feel the relative difference in "spool" time. Nissan quoted both cars with 280ps and their peak power/torque rpms are very similar if not exactly same, from what I can remember.

There are reasons that Nissan decided to upgrade series 2 GTTs with metal compressor wheels, maybe there have been reliability issues with series one turbos, I dont know for certain, maybe there were other faults. But anyone would trust Nissan's decision to upgrade were for the better, I dont think Nissan would go backwards by offering a worse turbo than the previous generation.

Thats why, the series 2 turbo that I'm selling is better than the plastic wheeled series 1 version. Also, being a newer turbo it is more reliable in the long run too.

I'm not asking double the price over a series 1 and I'm always open to reasonable offers. However, I will not sell it to you for $350 just because you are an uni student and you saw a series 1 sold for that much. If you like bakelite compressors better then I'm sure you could find one elsewhere and buy it, why even pay $350 for a "lesser" turbo?

Edited by Forged
Yo-Yo Grand Master

Yo-Yo

Posted
Posted
Well, each have they own advantages. I dont think you could feel the relative difference in "spool" time. Nissan quoted both cars with 280ps and their peak power/torque rpms are very similar if not exactly same, from what I can remember.

There are reasons that Nissan decided to upgrade series 2 GTTs with metal compressor wheels, maybe there have been reliability issues with series one turbos, I dont know for certain, maybe there were other faults. But anyone would trust Nissan's decision to upgrade were for the better, I dont think Nissan would go backwards by offering a worse turbo than the previous generation.

Thats why, the series 2 turbo that I'm selling is better than the plastic wheeled series 1 version. Also, being a newer turbo it is more reliable in the long run too.

I'm not asking double the price over a series 1 and I'm always open to reasonable offers. However, I will not sell it to you for $350 just because you are an uni student and you saw a series 1 sold for that much. If you like bakelite compressors better then I'm sure you could find one elsewhere and buy it, why even pay $350 for a "lesser" turbo?

U have PM

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...