Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

NOTE: THIS IS A VERY LONG THREAD SINCE MARCH 2007, PLEASE READ THIS FIRST POST, THAT'LL GIVE YOU THE WHOLE BIG PICTURE THEN PM ME OR GO TO THE LAST PAGE AND POST ANY QUESTIONS OR REQUEST.

Following the success of last year's RDA rotors group buys, RDA told me that the previous pricing will stand, with condition discretion is a must. That means no posting on the discounted prices on public forum as they also need to protect the interests of their authorised dealers. All discounted GB prices will be quoted to you via pm and is for your eyes only, not to be broadcasted to other public forums. Currently there are only two types of rotors to choose as below:

Standard Slotted Rotors

post-328-1186282177_thumb.jpg

Grooved Dimpled (Dimpled & Slots) - Gold Passivated - more rust resistance

post-328-1186282189_thumb.jpg

More info can be found here: RDA Brakes Products

The following are the parts which I can get access to for most Nissans:

Sloted Rotors:

1. R32 GTS-t/Z32 300ZXTT: F=909S 280mm RRP $170, R=908S 297mm RRP $190 (Front can be used for S15 Silvias)

2. R32 GTR (early models): F=7926S 296mm RRP $305, R=908S 297mm RRP $190

3. R33 GTS-t/R34 GT non turbo: F=7693S 296mm RRP $305, R=908S 297mm RRP $190

4. R32 GTR (late model)/R33 GTR/R34 GTR: F=7701S 324mm RRP $355, R=7702S 300mm RRP $355

5. S14/S15 Silvia: F=909S 280mm RRP $170, R=906S RRP $165

6. R34 GT-T turbo: F= 310mm N/A (TBA), R=908S 297mm RRP $190

Grooved & Dimpled Rotors:

7. R32 GTS-t/Z32 300ZXTT: F=909G 280mm RRP $305, R=908G 297mm RRP $285 (Front can be used for S15 Silvias)

8. R32 GTR (early models): F=7926G 296mm RRP $440, R=908G 297mm RRP $285

9. R33 GTS-t/R34 GT non turbo: F=7693G 296mm RRP $465, R=908G 297mm RRP $285

10. R32 GTR (late model)/R33 GTR/R34 GTR: F=7701G 324mm RRP $575, R=7702G 300mm RRP $525

11. S14/S15 Silvia: F=909G 280mm RRP $305, R=906G RRP $285

12. R34 GT-T turbo: F= 310mm N/A (TBA), R=908G 297mm RRP $285

Can also get rotors for the following cars:

- S13 CA18DET/SR20DET

- V35 Skyline / 350Z non brembo

- R33 non-turbo

*) All RRP prices above are per pair, GST inclusive however they DO NOT INCLUDE delivery costs.

At the moment there is still no parts available for the 310mm front rotors R34 GT-T (turbo), so the only R34 GT (non-turbo) rotors available is the 296mm front and all R34 GT/GT-T 297mm rear (Same as R33 GTS-t). Sorry about the inconveniences.

Deliveries all around Aust in 2-3 bus days via TNT courier or similar. No pickups as with the discounted prices that they gave us for at least 20% off retail, they'd rather concentrate on slotting/preparing/shipping out rotors than spending numerous request to pickup at this day, this time, this branch, etc. Delivery cost are a few bucks more than compared to 1st & 2nd batches where we had a few ppl having to wait out over a week, this was improved by using TNT or similar quality service which cost a few bucks extra but most people in 3rd & 4th got their rotors within 3 days, and worse case a week if no one at home and TNT could not contact the person.

25th batch is now open until 14th December 2007. Pm me for quotes. Payment need to clear before 14th Dec, otherwise I will put you in the next batch in 2008.

Delivery expected between 17th-21st December 2007.

THIS IS THE LAST GROUP BUY FOR YEAR 2007 - SO DON'T MISS OUT.

I WILL TAKE A BREAK AFTERWARDS AND RETURN IN JAN 2008...

Regards,

Rianto

  • Replies 490
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Ok, Will look for ur pm and reply today... I've got heaps of pm...

A Quick Update:

The following funds transfer has been cleared through:

1. Midnight - for 909G R32 Gtst

2. Holes - for 7693S & 908S R33 set

3. GunMetalR33 - for 7693S R33 Gtst

4. slayer_1971 - for 7701S R32 GTR Vspec Brembo

Im after a pair of front R32 GTST slotted rotors. pm me a quote.. how much approx is shipping going to be?

can they be ordered in blanks? because I need 4x114.3. I can get them redrilled easily enough but blanks would be nice.

Edited by racsov500

Sorry for late reply, i was away from home and my pc

on this long weekend (monday = labour day in vic).

sorry, no blanks, no custom pcd (e.g a 7693 with custom

4x100 instead of std 5x114.3). the only way you're

allowed to have it is if you buy the whole crate of rotors

(120 pieces).

I will reply to the rest of ur pm in the morning as i really

need some sleep right now...

Quick update 13/3/2007:

Payments cleared through for the following orders:

1. Midnight - for 909G R32 Gtst

2. Holes - for 7693S & 908S R33 set

3. GunMetalR33 - for 7693S R33 Gtst

4. slayer_1971 - for 7701S R32 GTR Vspec Brembo

5. My_Silvia = for 7693S R33 Gtst

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...