Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Update to Group Buy 18 orders: 7 orders received now!

1- Birth for R32 Gtst rear rotors (payment cleared)

2- VSPEC-33 for R33 GTR rotors (payment cleared)

3- 2630GTS for R32 Gtst rear (payment cleared)

4- GTR32GUS for R32 GTR early model full set (payment cleared)

5- Tuan for RX8 redstuff pad (payment to cleared)

6- Simmo195 for R33 Gtst front (waiting for payment to clear)

7- gibbau for R32 Gtst rotors (waiting for payment to clear)

  • Replies 490
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Update to Group Buy 18 orders: 8 orders received now!

1- Birth for R32 Gtst rear rotors (payment cleared)

2- VSPEC-33 for R33 GTR rotors (payment cleared)

3- 2630GTS for R32 Gtst rear (payment cleared)

4- GTR32GUS for R32 GTR early model full set (payment cleared)

5- Tuan for RX8 redstuff pad (payment to cleared)

6- Simmo195 for R33 Gtst front (payment cleared)

7- gibbau for R32 Gtst rotors (payment cleared)

8- r33line for R33 Gtst grooved rotors & pads (payment cleared)

GB 18 submitted.. all according to plan...

From the last time I spoke to RDA it's about 9 weeks from the week of 2nd of August...

So let's see... that would be another 4-5 weeks from now...

Hi, orders submitted so hopefully they will all arrive by mid next week the latest (if you all didn't miss a delivery due to not being home, etc).

Break squeal can also be caused by pads, not only rotors, but things get worse when rotor or pads are badly worn, so see how you go...

Hi

Dont know if this is still going, i jsut read the first post and the last one.

Can you please give me prices via PM on..

1. R32 GTS-t/Z32 300ZXTT: F=909S 280mm RRP $170, R=908S 297mm RRP $190 (Front can be used for S15 Silvias)

3. R33 GTS-t/R34 GT non turbo: F=7693S 296mm RRP $305, R=908S 297mm RRP $190

7. R32 GTS-t/Z32 300ZXTT: F=909G 280mm RRP $305, R=908G 297mm RRP $285 (Front can be used for S15 Silvias)

9. R33 GTS-t/R34 GT non turbo: F=7693G 296mm RRP $465, R=908G 297mm RRP $285

All for the FRONT rotors only please..

Also would it be ok to order blanks or only come predrilled?

Just sussing out which brake setup to use.. thank you.

Break squeal can also be caused by pads, not only rotors, but things get worse when rotor or pads are badly worn, so see how you go...

My current rotors have sort of got circular lines running around them.. they feel bumpy when running my finger up and down. The front break pads are new Lucas's, they were put on during the RWC before I bought the car - so it may well be the pads.

I will be replacing the pads if the problem does not go away after installing the rotors.

My current rotors have sort of got circular lines running around them.. they feel bumpy when running my finger up and down. The front break pads are new Lucas's, they were put on during the RWC before I bought the car - so it may well be the pads.

I will be replacing the pads if the problem does not go away after installing the rotors.

Sounds like both rotors and pad problem. If your rotor is healthy, you can have it machined nicely and flat surface.

I had a problem with the old std rotors (93 gtst) which caused steering vibration and squeal, which was fixed by machining the rotors and putting new pads in.

I probably could of got them machined, but figured I may as well just upgrade as I was going to eventually anyway. I'm not getting any vibration (not yet anyway), only squealing.

Why do you say pad problem as well? Brake pads are less than 2 weeks old? Time will tell I guess! I'll invest in some anti-squeal stuff before replacing pads, see how that goes.

I didn't know the condition of pads you have right now... maybe the pad shim is worn out, or when an old pad shim is being reused it may caused all sort of noises, I was told so, as the shim is to ensure pads sits flatly against the rotor and absorb any noises or vibration.

But give your rotors a machining and see how it goes... I had slight groove (not bad) on the rear one and that one was the one I had squeal on, so could be the rotors after all.

I'll check the part number list, if you can confirm that the diameter the same with 350Z front & rear then they should be ok.

Remember that the 350Z has the track version with bigger rotors and brakes (I believe) so this may be the same with V35 Premium coupe with bigger brakes too...

GB19 is going on now, got 1-2 orders so far...

the v35 had a few iterations

the 03-04 coupe had normal spec and a "track" spec which was not related to the premium package. the "track" spec was offered on manual models as an upgrade and included the brembe package. the rest of the entire range had the same normal-spec package

the 05+ coupe no longer offered brembo but had a larger brake setup

so it would be the 03-04 coupe "non-brembo" setup which is what would work

i believe the equivalent in the DBA brand is:

4000 series

front part# DBA 4954 (296mm x 24mm)

rear part# DBA 4574 (292mm x 16mm)

according to the DBA website, the part number is the same for the skyline and 350z standard/touring model 2003-2005

i'm not sure how to find out if its the same with the RDA range so i was hoping you could help :D

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for doing that Duncan! Makes you a good person in my books. We don't get kangaroos or wombats here. But we have bats and it's similar. AFAIK it's often the mums with a baby attached that get hit because they drop lower when starting from a tree. If you hit an animal, check on it. https://www.ifaw.org/au/resources/wildlife-rescue-app An app to get the closest wildlife rescue contact.
    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
×
×
  • Create New...