Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Update to Group Buy 18 orders: 7 orders received now!

1- Birth for R32 Gtst rear rotors (payment cleared)

2- VSPEC-33 for R33 GTR rotors (payment cleared)

3- 2630GTS for R32 Gtst rear (payment cleared)

4- GTR32GUS for R32 GTR early model full set (payment cleared)

5- Tuan for RX8 redstuff pad (payment to cleared)

6- Simmo195 for R33 Gtst front (waiting for payment to clear)

7- gibbau for R32 Gtst rotors (waiting for payment to clear)

  • Replies 490
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Update to Group Buy 18 orders: 8 orders received now!

1- Birth for R32 Gtst rear rotors (payment cleared)

2- VSPEC-33 for R33 GTR rotors (payment cleared)

3- 2630GTS for R32 Gtst rear (payment cleared)

4- GTR32GUS for R32 GTR early model full set (payment cleared)

5- Tuan for RX8 redstuff pad (payment to cleared)

6- Simmo195 for R33 Gtst front (payment cleared)

7- gibbau for R32 Gtst rotors (payment cleared)

8- r33line for R33 Gtst grooved rotors & pads (payment cleared)

GB 18 submitted.. all according to plan...

From the last time I spoke to RDA it's about 9 weeks from the week of 2nd of August...

So let's see... that would be another 4-5 weeks from now...

Hi, orders submitted so hopefully they will all arrive by mid next week the latest (if you all didn't miss a delivery due to not being home, etc).

Break squeal can also be caused by pads, not only rotors, but things get worse when rotor or pads are badly worn, so see how you go...

Hi

Dont know if this is still going, i jsut read the first post and the last one.

Can you please give me prices via PM on..

1. R32 GTS-t/Z32 300ZXTT: F=909S 280mm RRP $170, R=908S 297mm RRP $190 (Front can be used for S15 Silvias)

3. R33 GTS-t/R34 GT non turbo: F=7693S 296mm RRP $305, R=908S 297mm RRP $190

7. R32 GTS-t/Z32 300ZXTT: F=909G 280mm RRP $305, R=908G 297mm RRP $285 (Front can be used for S15 Silvias)

9. R33 GTS-t/R34 GT non turbo: F=7693G 296mm RRP $465, R=908G 297mm RRP $285

All for the FRONT rotors only please..

Also would it be ok to order blanks or only come predrilled?

Just sussing out which brake setup to use.. thank you.

Break squeal can also be caused by pads, not only rotors, but things get worse when rotor or pads are badly worn, so see how you go...

My current rotors have sort of got circular lines running around them.. they feel bumpy when running my finger up and down. The front break pads are new Lucas's, they were put on during the RWC before I bought the car - so it may well be the pads.

I will be replacing the pads if the problem does not go away after installing the rotors.

My current rotors have sort of got circular lines running around them.. they feel bumpy when running my finger up and down. The front break pads are new Lucas's, they were put on during the RWC before I bought the car - so it may well be the pads.

I will be replacing the pads if the problem does not go away after installing the rotors.

Sounds like both rotors and pad problem. If your rotor is healthy, you can have it machined nicely and flat surface.

I had a problem with the old std rotors (93 gtst) which caused steering vibration and squeal, which was fixed by machining the rotors and putting new pads in.

I probably could of got them machined, but figured I may as well just upgrade as I was going to eventually anyway. I'm not getting any vibration (not yet anyway), only squealing.

Why do you say pad problem as well? Brake pads are less than 2 weeks old? Time will tell I guess! I'll invest in some anti-squeal stuff before replacing pads, see how that goes.

I didn't know the condition of pads you have right now... maybe the pad shim is worn out, or when an old pad shim is being reused it may caused all sort of noises, I was told so, as the shim is to ensure pads sits flatly against the rotor and absorb any noises or vibration.

But give your rotors a machining and see how it goes... I had slight groove (not bad) on the rear one and that one was the one I had squeal on, so could be the rotors after all.

I'll check the part number list, if you can confirm that the diameter the same with 350Z front & rear then they should be ok.

Remember that the 350Z has the track version with bigger rotors and brakes (I believe) so this may be the same with V35 Premium coupe with bigger brakes too...

GB19 is going on now, got 1-2 orders so far...

the v35 had a few iterations

the 03-04 coupe had normal spec and a "track" spec which was not related to the premium package. the "track" spec was offered on manual models as an upgrade and included the brembe package. the rest of the entire range had the same normal-spec package

the 05+ coupe no longer offered brembo but had a larger brake setup

so it would be the 03-04 coupe "non-brembo" setup which is what would work

i believe the equivalent in the DBA brand is:

4000 series

front part# DBA 4954 (296mm x 24mm)

rear part# DBA 4574 (292mm x 16mm)

according to the DBA website, the part number is the same for the skyline and 350z standard/touring model 2003-2005

i'm not sure how to find out if its the same with the RDA range so i was hoping you could help :D

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
×
×
  • Create New...