Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Update to Group Buy 18 orders: 7 orders received now!

1- Birth for R32 Gtst rear rotors (payment cleared)

2- VSPEC-33 for R33 GTR rotors (payment cleared)

3- 2630GTS for R32 Gtst rear (payment cleared)

4- GTR32GUS for R32 GTR early model full set (payment cleared)

5- Tuan for RX8 redstuff pad (payment to cleared)

6- Simmo195 for R33 Gtst front (waiting for payment to clear)

7- gibbau for R32 Gtst rotors (waiting for payment to clear)

  • Replies 490
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Update to Group Buy 18 orders: 8 orders received now!

1- Birth for R32 Gtst rear rotors (payment cleared)

2- VSPEC-33 for R33 GTR rotors (payment cleared)

3- 2630GTS for R32 Gtst rear (payment cleared)

4- GTR32GUS for R32 GTR early model full set (payment cleared)

5- Tuan for RX8 redstuff pad (payment to cleared)

6- Simmo195 for R33 Gtst front (payment cleared)

7- gibbau for R32 Gtst rotors (payment cleared)

8- r33line for R33 Gtst grooved rotors & pads (payment cleared)

GB 18 submitted.. all according to plan...

From the last time I spoke to RDA it's about 9 weeks from the week of 2nd of August...

So let's see... that would be another 4-5 weeks from now...

Hi, orders submitted so hopefully they will all arrive by mid next week the latest (if you all didn't miss a delivery due to not being home, etc).

Break squeal can also be caused by pads, not only rotors, but things get worse when rotor or pads are badly worn, so see how you go...

Hi

Dont know if this is still going, i jsut read the first post and the last one.

Can you please give me prices via PM on..

1. R32 GTS-t/Z32 300ZXTT: F=909S 280mm RRP $170, R=908S 297mm RRP $190 (Front can be used for S15 Silvias)

3. R33 GTS-t/R34 GT non turbo: F=7693S 296mm RRP $305, R=908S 297mm RRP $190

7. R32 GTS-t/Z32 300ZXTT: F=909G 280mm RRP $305, R=908G 297mm RRP $285 (Front can be used for S15 Silvias)

9. R33 GTS-t/R34 GT non turbo: F=7693G 296mm RRP $465, R=908G 297mm RRP $285

All for the FRONT rotors only please..

Also would it be ok to order blanks or only come predrilled?

Just sussing out which brake setup to use.. thank you.

Break squeal can also be caused by pads, not only rotors, but things get worse when rotor or pads are badly worn, so see how you go...

My current rotors have sort of got circular lines running around them.. they feel bumpy when running my finger up and down. The front break pads are new Lucas's, they were put on during the RWC before I bought the car - so it may well be the pads.

I will be replacing the pads if the problem does not go away after installing the rotors.

My current rotors have sort of got circular lines running around them.. they feel bumpy when running my finger up and down. The front break pads are new Lucas's, they were put on during the RWC before I bought the car - so it may well be the pads.

I will be replacing the pads if the problem does not go away after installing the rotors.

Sounds like both rotors and pad problem. If your rotor is healthy, you can have it machined nicely and flat surface.

I had a problem with the old std rotors (93 gtst) which caused steering vibration and squeal, which was fixed by machining the rotors and putting new pads in.

I probably could of got them machined, but figured I may as well just upgrade as I was going to eventually anyway. I'm not getting any vibration (not yet anyway), only squealing.

Why do you say pad problem as well? Brake pads are less than 2 weeks old? Time will tell I guess! I'll invest in some anti-squeal stuff before replacing pads, see how that goes.

I didn't know the condition of pads you have right now... maybe the pad shim is worn out, or when an old pad shim is being reused it may caused all sort of noises, I was told so, as the shim is to ensure pads sits flatly against the rotor and absorb any noises or vibration.

But give your rotors a machining and see how it goes... I had slight groove (not bad) on the rear one and that one was the one I had squeal on, so could be the rotors after all.

I'll check the part number list, if you can confirm that the diameter the same with 350Z front & rear then they should be ok.

Remember that the 350Z has the track version with bigger rotors and brakes (I believe) so this may be the same with V35 Premium coupe with bigger brakes too...

GB19 is going on now, got 1-2 orders so far...

the v35 had a few iterations

the 03-04 coupe had normal spec and a "track" spec which was not related to the premium package. the "track" spec was offered on manual models as an upgrade and included the brembe package. the rest of the entire range had the same normal-spec package

the 05+ coupe no longer offered brembo but had a larger brake setup

so it would be the 03-04 coupe "non-brembo" setup which is what would work

i believe the equivalent in the DBA brand is:

4000 series

front part# DBA 4954 (296mm x 24mm)

rear part# DBA 4574 (292mm x 16mm)

according to the DBA website, the part number is the same for the skyline and 350z standard/touring model 2003-2005

i'm not sure how to find out if its the same with the RDA range so i was hoping you could help :D

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I strongly recommend anyone playing with cars chasing anything electric, get a basic understanding of using a DMM, and about 12V DC systems. They're REALLY easy, you only need to know V=IR and how to apply it, and you can work out what your readings should be doing. For a simple check on a light bulb, you're looking for 12V at the positive to the light, a near zero resistance to ground, and then for a small resistance across the globe when unplugged. If one of those values isn't right, you won't get what you need. Now if they're all okay,and you then plug the light in, and it still won't work, you now do a voltage check across the globe positive to negative. It should effectively read full battery voltage. If it's not, especially if it's quite low, the age old V=IR starts to be able to be thought about, you now know though, for the current flowing, there isn't much voltage for the given resistance, but the rest of that V has to be dropping somewhere else. So now do a voltage check from ground of globe, to ground of car, then do voltage check from positive of battery, to positive of the light connector. Things like a high resistance in a wire/join will start to "steal" voltage on you. So now step back through which ever wire, until you find the voltage drop is non existent, you're now before what ever is steal your voltage for example.   There's plenty of YouTube videos, but really worth understanding some V=IR, and doing some even theoretical numbers to start to understand it. Then you'll know what the DMM is telling you.
    • Is Jackie home by Friday?
    • Item 10: Tech Edge wideband sensor interface and display. You’ll need to buy a new sensor. $150. Item 11: part of a Willians 5 point harness. $40 Item 12: OS88 gear display. No need for it now, my PPG sequential came with one. $30
    • I took it out, even though I knew I probably don't know what I'm doing other than looking for power signal lol. Lesson learned here I guess, even if it looks normal, worth checking as it only takes a few seconds anyhow. And maybe disconnect the battery, even though really shouldn't have to.
×
×
  • Create New...