Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering if anybody else seen the article about imports sitting in an adelaide dealers yard[ fitz$#y]

The cars in question were a 33GTR , supra and a series 2 R33GTS25T skyline.

Some of these cars had 40, ks vanish of their clocks from the auction yards odmtr reading. If I bought a car from there , I would be seriously pissed off . The mta no longer approved the yard as of the next day.

This was surposed to be a wide practice too , these guys just got caught.

Would love to hear peoples views

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158985-wound-back-clocks-in-imports/
Share on other sites

In my eyes ANY noticable wear on a gearknob, leather, pedals or seats before 150,000km's means the clock has been wound back.

~ 5years ago I test drove a Soarer from an importer. It had 228,000km's on the clock and had only just been received as it was completely filthy. I got back and said, it feels quite tight for 228,000km's. Its in good nick. The bloke replied stupidly... Oh no thats not the real km's on the clock, its only done 60,000km's as the speedo causes the odometer to read high. It was in good nick for 228,000km but it was not a 60,000km car.

A complete Joke.

A 60,000km car regardless of age is and feels near bran spankin new.

My sister a couple of years ago bought a VL that had been owned by an elderly couple. It had just over 100,000km's on the clock and it literally was bran spanking new. Quite a sight to see an old car as such look so 'new'.

Japan has lots of short trips so it wears the interior.. Don't let that lie fool you.

My GTR had 97,000kms on the speedo and these were ligit.

I had a look at some others which had 45, to 70, ks on their tako's and their interiors were knackered compared to mine. Most car yards I came across said it happens alot in the auction yards , yeah right , pull the other one. Just proves that if it dont feel right, dont buy it.

Lol, my mum flipped out and rang me as soon as she saw it because im importing a skyline =)

had to calm her down and tell her everything was okay, Japanese autions are the real deal, its was just a dodgey car yard, they could have done it to fords and commodores as well.

but yeah, something to be wary of i guess

Lol, my mum flipped out and rang me as soon as she saw it because im importing a skyline =)

had to calm her down and tell her everything was okay, Japanese autions are the real deal, its was just a dodgey car yard, they could have done it to fords and commodores as well.

but yeah, something to be wary of i guess

when i bought my r32 8months ago it had done 58,000kms.. i thought it had been wound bak but i checked the import papers and it said it was imported in jan 06 with 47,000ks done..

Welcome to like 10 years ago guys.

What none of you knew that almost every single import has their clocks wound back?

A current affair decided to make example of one car yard when actually its almost ALL of them that do it.

The only way to guarantee unwound clocks, and thats to import yourself and comply via someone you know.

It's not even just car yards though!!

The import yards wind them back in japan, or replace the dash cluster completely so they can sell the car quicker.

I was under the impression that pretty much every import had their km's tampered with. The story didn't come as news to me. I am definitely not a fan of dodgy car salesmen, but trust me, he's definitely not the only one doing this! If you buy an import, you run this risk, no matter who or where it's from.

It's not even just car yards though!!

The import yards wind them back in japan, or replace the dash cluster completely so they can sell the car quicker.

I was under the impression that pretty much every import had their km's tampered with. The story didn't come as news to me. I am definitely not a fan of dodgy car salesmen, but trust me, he's definitely not the only one doing this! If you buy an import, you run this risk, no matter who or where it's from.

^^^^^yep......

i have been looking at some of the import sites and they reckon that a 93 GTR has only 47000k's on the clock.....photos to prove it as well..... HOWEVER, the same site has a 2001 R34 GTR with 79000k's(electric odometer) which seems a lot more realistic....

i know that the clock was wound back on my car when i bought it..... Meh.... what can you do??? It was in great conditon etc etc and I wanted it, so i bought it.....knowing that it had a lot more km's under it's belt than what the odo said.....

even a left fielder...........im goin to be honest if i ever sell my car

my odometer stopped workin 2 years ago.......smack on 311000kms

went and got a newer cluster that worked..............and it had 238000kms on it (roughly)

could still to this day work out for ya what the original kays are........but technically cos i got the odometer working again (by gettin a working gauge cluster) ive broken the law yes?

i would like to know if mine has been wound back( it wouldn't surprise me) after everything i was told was replaced that i am now paying to get fixed

but really it doesn't worry me, any car can be wound back thats part of the gamble in purchasing a used car

someone said a R34 gtr had 79k kms and it was on an electronic odometer.. my question is if its hard to wound back an electronic odometer? im just asking coz i got a 1998 R34 gtt and its an electronic odo wit 65k kms so wondering if its original kms... if so it avreages to like 7k kms a year wich aint shyt so im a bit curious...

of course you can wind them back - they are a computer at the end of the day. But some Jap cars are genuinely low km, as basically everyone there uses the mass transit system and might have only used the car on weekends. The cost of tolls, parking and driving in general over there are absolutely ridiculous - so lots of low km cars makes sense.

GTRs are very easy to spot ungenuine km, as all you have to do is look at the paint on the intake plenum - if it is still mickey mouse black, then it has under 100,000km - if it is all paint stripped and looks white in patches then it is easily over 100k.

Steering wheels, gear knobs, handbrake boots, seats and seat belts are easy indicators of km travelled, but can of course be changed too.

Sorry to say but it aint the yards in australia that are the problem and reading on here how some say Auctions are legit is just rubbish. When i was looking at one chaser i was asked by the broker if i would like less k's on it. And that if the the car didnt get done by the preivous owner aswell before auction.

I was offered a car also after a auction which was the exact same car but after the buyer got it for a song had k's wound bak thinking most people didnt have full access to house listing and sheet. Oh and yes this buyer has sold many lines on ere also.

Sad sad sad

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...