Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all... I know some of you have made the transition... what transition?

Skyline to Evo

Its time to give my baby up, regretfully, and look towards the future, i.e. buying an Evo. So, expect to see my car up here and in the trader in the next couple of months.

I'm pretty much sorted in terms of hooking one up i.e. importers, I just want to know peoples personal experiences with these rockets; what are they like to live with? Drive everyday, that sorta thing. (I've only ever heard good things, and from my experience in them I think it's a wise choice).

Interested to know... cheers!

p.s. looking at a 7.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160414-i-know-it-has-been-done/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

YAY!!

Go Sav, thats sooo cool!! :D

Get one Get one!!

Where'd you get an EVOOOOooooooooooooooooo?

Yeah has to be done Juzzy!

Speaking to Joe... he's seems to be seeing a few. He's got one coming next week for a customer. Going to go have a peek! :happy:

Easiest car to live with I've ever owned.

4-doors, lots of space, reasonable on fuel, easy to beat Cougar at DECA - what more do you want?

I know an awesome yellow VII for sale - loads of goodery on it too.

White always looks good.

Evo VII's are definately the best choice :D

Seats are tighter and a few more angles over the VIII and IX so I think it has a tougher stance :D

Mine is very economical so I regularly see 420-450kms to 40 litres on the freeway. Even around town it seldom drops below 400 with fanging returning about 380 to a tank.

Definately upgrade the springs to get the most from the handling as they have some body roll from factory.

I am hoping to put mine up to 200kw in the next few months with a couple of mods but don't want much more as it is used daily and for about 600kms a week. Being blue, mine attracts little attention which is another plus point and as such, have never been pulled over in it.

Servicing is also quite reasonable with a basic service being around the $250-$300 mark.

Personally I would buy here for peace of mind although the company James used seems to be very good.

Not really much else to say except they are ace cars that do the job during the week and enable you to mix it up at the weekend with the other performance cars.

HTH :laugh:

I think i'll stick with my R33 GTR, when your Vll has its 12th birthday and still holds its chin up high, and manages to send a unnerving shake up the spine of people driving so called factory packed high performance vehicles of the day.

I'll be forced to agree with ya's...but from what ive seen they are just a glorified Rex....good for 2-3yrs than get rid of them for the next model,

b4 you get left with a boat anchor.

This is my personal bias oppinion as a zilla owner and fan for life.... "no car can give you more long term bang for your buck"

Been there, owned the 600+ hp GT-R..... Got over it.

Evo's are great, I love mine to death best thing I ever did was sell the GT-R & move on. So far its cost me SFA to own & maintain & given heaps of thrills the (few) times ive driven it.

The VII's are great value nowdays, lots of fruit for your money & look great in white..... :D

Owning the GT-R was fun, but ment I was always broke, because something else always needed to be upgraded in the quest for powah!

Been there, owned the 600+ hp GT-R..... Got over it.

Evo's are great, I love mine to death best thing I ever did was sell the GT-R & move on. So far its cost me SFA to own & maintain & given heaps of thrills the (few) times ive driven it.

The VII's are great value nowdays, lots of fruit for your money & look great in white..... :P

Owning the GT-R was fun, but ment I was always broke, because something else always needed to be upgraded in the quest for powah!

Yeah whatever Rod,

Deep inside we know you've regret and want your GTR back but its too late :D. (KHOA) :D

Don't get a VII, get a IX. I find the price difference isn't a hug margine at all and the IX looks so much SHARPER. I got to agree with you about a WHITE EVO though, can't go wrong there.

Tisk tisk Sav... another one bites the dust...

No slideways fun in an Evo, but apart from that they're awesome cars. Beautiful to drive, have nice poke stock, big brakes, unbelievable handling, plenty of room to put you purse, the list is endless.

Nice choice in the VII, that'd be my choice too if I suddenly lost my balls

:D

Thanks for all the responses people. Appreciated, I'm not a traitor, done the Skyline thing now it's time to move on. Who knows, chances are I'll come back at some stage... but for now... Evo all the way!

Evo VII's are definately the best choice :P

Seats are tighter and a few more angles over the VIII and IX so I think it has a tougher stance :cool:

Mine is very economical so I regularly see 420-450kms to 40 litres on the freeway. Even around town it seldom drops below 400 with fanging returning about 380 to a tank.

Definately upgrade the springs to get the most from the handling as they have some body roll from factory.

I am hoping to put mine up to 200kw in the next few months with a couple of mods but don't want much more as it is used daily and for about 600kms a week. Being blue, mine attracts little attention which is another plus point and as such, have never been pulled over in it.

Servicing is also quite reasonable with a basic service being around the $250-$300 mark.

Personally I would buy here for peace of mind although the company James used seems to be very good.

Not really much else to say except they are ace cars that do the job during the week and enable you to mix it up at the weekend with the other performance cars.

HTH :cool:

Cheers mate, couldn't ask for any more advise! :)

Buy a skyline their quicker ;)

But on the quiet the evo is very nice as a daily driver :)

Got a Skyline! :sleep: Looking for the daily!

Tisk tisk Sav... another one bites the dust...

No slideways fun in an Evo, but apart from that they're awesome cars. Beautiful to drive, have nice poke stock, big brakes, unbelievable handling, plenty of room to put you purse, the list is endless.

Nice choice in the VII, that'd be my choice too if I suddenly lost my balls

:D

Dane... f**k you... that is all! :ninja:

But thank you! :laugh:

Getting OLD! 26 on Saturday!

Plus, the way my car is set up, well it's not the most comfortable thing to drive on a day to day basis. Rock-hard suspension Bride-brix seat and the likes!

Plus, would like to sell her before I pile too many more k's on her.

Plus, would be nice for a change! :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey y'all! I'm curious about how y'all go about widebodying your cars. I noticed that when running a square setup, my front wheels are a bit more tucked in than my rear wheels. Not by much, maybe 5-10mm. This leads me to wonder - when I widebody, should I use narrower front flares and wider rear flares? I found a set of 40mm rear flares that I really like, and was thinking of pairing them with some 18mm front flares, but I don't want the car to look strange. How have others done this? Note, I'm in a sedan. Thanks!
    • And if it was anything other than an auto tranny part, it might be a problem. But seeing as all auto trannies belong in the recycling bin, it's fine.
    • I have an R32 Fenix rad. It is good.
    • All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
    • Been a busy but productive day. Axle and hubs acquired. All fitted up after a bit of modifying. Need to sort out wider mudguards and running light reflector covers but other than that the trailer is gooood to go !!
×
×
  • Create New...