Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just go try repco, auto one, supercheap, etc.

im pretty sure the 32 gtr's are the same as a 33 gts-t, and i picked up mine from repco.

alternatively they can get them within the next week, got some ordered for kylie's stagea and recived them within a week (and they are weird/rare pads!)

dont bother with stock pads (or bendix, green stuff etc), if you are after decent performance when being hard driven - cos they are garbage IMO, more designed for someone who wants to think they got great pads but dont know better, they are also dusty as hell and fade quite easily once you start driving hard.

VisonR have a couple of different types of Endless pads in stock, around $240 (from memory) a set for SS-S, which will make you grin every time you touch the brakes. Excellent low dust street-light track work pad with great initial bite, 0-500deg C, aren't noisey when cold and wont destroy your rotors.

I agree with bendix but apart from teh fact the green stuf dissappears fast i thought they did well.

Think the pads u want for a 33t are "race brakes rb26's" yer i know 26 is just a coincidence. Perth brake parts are teh place for them.9451 9455

Who in Perth carries stock of brake pads for r32 gtr's ?

anybody know who coz looking at a few local websites they never specify what models they have the pads for

Hi Gary

The good news is that the pads for the non-Brembo GT-Rs are the same as those fitted to the S15 amnd many models of the WRX. Very easy to source.

If you want a set of excellent pads I have a set of "Pagid Blues" that I sourced from Perth Brake parts a while back. These are the "ducks nuts" and have done less than a 1,000 kms. Will really transform your braking!

Drop me a PM if you are interested.

Gav

i have organized a set of

SSS - Endless Brake Pads Type SSS (Front set)

Best Match Tyre: Radial tyre

Best Use: Street/Winding/Light Track

Material: Non Asbestos

Colour: Navy Blue

Co-Efficiency: 0.35~0.43

Rotor Temp: 0~500°C

they will do for now from vision R

i have organized a set of

SSS - Endless Brake Pads Type SSS (Front set)

Best Match Tyre: Radial tyre

Best Use: Street/Winding/Light Track

Material: Non Asbestos

Colour: Navy Blue

Co-Efficiency: 0.35~0.43

Rotor Temp: 0~500°C

they will do for now from vision R

That is a really low friction coefficient. You may need to get to the gym to work on your leg muscles. What are you using at the back?

Not sure what sort of road/track bias you are after but the Ferodo DS2500 takes a lot of beating. Friction coefficient is approx 0.5....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...