Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

As my GTR is for sale, I have some bits for sale.

Defi BF II Control Box - $90

Defi BF II Fuel Pressure Gauge - $200

Defi BF II Oil Pressure Gauge - $200

Defi BF II Oil Temp Gauge - $200

Moulded R33 dash mount for 3 x 60mm gauges - $200

Pair of used HKS dumps for R33 GTR - $400

Bosch 044 fuel pump (unused, still in packaging) - $200

GReddy timing belt. Bought for my GTR, but may fit other RB's - $150

Pair of 255/40/17 Goodyear Revspecs. These were $430ea new. I've done 1000k's only on them. - $400 for the pair.

Set of ISC coilovers for R33 GTR, these are in extremely good nic. Almost brand spankers - $800

I am semi negotiable on all prices. Pictures will be posted at some stage. :huh:

Christian

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160894-lots-of-goodies-for-sale/
Share on other sites

Pics coming soon.

Um, not sure about the dumps, I think it'd be fine though.

All gauges with controller - $600.

Omurru, sorry about no reply. I'll reply now.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is may e 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Dose anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
×
×
  • Create New...