Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone, I just finished fitting the GT2860-5's to my R32 gtr and must say they've made a huge difference, the car feels more responsive and comes on boost earlier too. On full throttle it's fine but on really light acceleration and at cruise I now get bad waste gate flutter and surging. I never had this problem with the original turbo's and haven't changed anything other than the turbo's and a bit of metal off the exhaust manifolds.

Any ideas?? Help please!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160901-gt2860r-5s-surging-flutter/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

how much boost are you running? maybe you might need an aftermarket BOV.

Around 1bar I think (factory gauge). But I don't think it's got anything to do with the BOV's, It's barely seeing any boost at all at very light throttle.

I think his actually trying to describe the compressor surge problem.

I had this really bad on my GTR when I first bought it. with the original 2530's fitted it would "chuff" when cruising or light throttle up hill etc.

I bumped the base timing up by 2 degress and it fixed the problem.

it's compressor surge and the shuffling comes from the return pressure wave. after market BOV's being more heavily sprung will make it worse.

changes to tuning and/or cam gear positions should get rid of it.

edit/correction: it is not the BOV opening and closing, it is the flow of air back thru the AFM/airbox as incorrectly posted.

Edited by wolverine
Ok, I'll start with the basics i.e tune and see how it goes. I went through all the other threads on this topic and everyone is seems quick to point the finger at the BOV's.

its not the BOV's...to prove a point disconnect the vaccum line to them and block it so you don't have a manifold leak, then go for a light throttle drive up a long hill....i bet it still happens. Its the compressed air from the larger turbo's surging back out the intake through the AFM's.

You would not be on the throttle hard enough to generate boost, so the BOV would not even operate.

Ash ive had 2530's chuff so bad the car was almost undrivable....quick tune at Croydon's...magic...all gone!

Stock GTR BOV's are very good ive even seen them on hard tuned Supra's

Alright, well they are a fair bit bigger than the standards so I'm not ruling compressor surge out yet. I'll crimp the vacuum lines to the BOV's rendering them inactive tomoz and see what happens. But I don't understand how different turbo's is going to throw the BOV's out of wack??

Yer I've heard the standard BOV's are really good and I seriously doubt that they are the cause. But I shall test them and the plumbing for them anyway just so we know for sure. First i'll bump the timing up a tad as you suggested and see what happens. I've still only got a mines modified ecu at this stage so tuning is limited, wolf 3d coming soon. Thanks for the advice everyone, I'll let you know what I find.

i have been told this with my setup that the turbo was producing too much air forcing air through to my afm. causing more fuel and hesitation.

Apperantly only way to fix it (from what i have been told) is if ya get a computer that has an inbuilt map sensor, or move the afm to another location before the TPS.

Bit of farkin around but if thats what has to be done, then thats it.

Im upgrading turbo anyway so i'll deal with it when time comes.

Edited by bazr33

Yer that's why I'm going for the wolf 3d v5, do away with the afm's all together, bit more expensive but I think the plug n play is the way to go. But for now, unless a simple tweak of the CAS will fix it, it looks like I might just have to deal with it. Oh well, I was looking for another reason to spend more money on her!!

Well today I blocked off the BOV vacuum lines - made no difference what so ever - still very bad WASTEGATE flutter and surging goin on under there - rules out the BOV's once and for all (and it upset the idle). Advanced the CAS - made no difference either. It seems to occur right on the transition from vacuum to boost, near impossible to drive slow.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...