Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest INASNT

Ok instead of spending $5000 on a new hks 3037 turbo, i can get a melbourne garrett guy to make me a turbo using all garrett parts to the same spec as the hks 3037 or 2835. My mechanic has a spare 3037 sitting on his bench not doing much at the moment and he said i could borrow it and give it to the garrett guy to pull apart and make my turbo to the same spec as the 3037 but keep it internal gated and match the flange and put new braided hose oil and water line, so i can fit it back to my stock manifold all for around $2100. This way i can sell my turbo for X of dollars. I was going to go the gcg updrade but that way u have to send them your turbo and they modify it for $2200.

Now i am thinking will the 3037 spec housing be 2 big to fit mount? should i get a custom manifold made and high mount to display it and look full sick when i pop the bonnet?

Now the main part being will the car be easy and have a nice power curve? I am aiming for around 250rwkw +, and have all the rest of the parts i need preety much sorted out, i was told it would make full boost around 4000-4500rpm when running around 16psi!

Your thoughts?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16097-my-custom-turbo-plans/
Share on other sites

Sounds interesting....

Few things number one no it prolly wont fit onto standard manifold. You can just get a spacer made up and some longer studs. Simplest way, im still running standar manifold and put down enough power.

What kinda specs are you gonna go on the turbo? The main difference i see between a garret and an HKS is the actual housings, i dont think garret would be able to make it the same as a 3037.

Why dont u just go a GT30 or something similar from garret they are just as good and you wont be messing around mixing and matching turbo bits hoping that it will turn out ok. I did that and the car ran like shit until i tried again.

Second thing that i know is gonna be an issue for you is there is absolutely **** all decent size turbine housings with internal gates.

Guest INASNT

There is a hks 3037 with internal gate u can buy from hks!

hks basically buy the garrett turbo and modify it and stamp their name on it!

I might look into getting a gt30 and have it modified to fit my manifold. This guy makes them usually from scratch to whatever spec u want

Im aware of the HKS internal gated housing. Call up any aussie turbo joint and ask them the availability on ANY brand of T3 Internall gated housings over .60 A/R....

GT30 is a T3 plate and will bolt straight on if you have spacers. The GT30 centre cannot be built. It comes complete from garret and then they just bolt on the appropriate housings (after prepping)

Guest INASNT
Originally posted by Nismodified

HKS do get their turbos from garret, but in the end, you wont get the same results as the HKS unit, with all the money they put into there R&D.

Im not saying this 'melbourne garrett guy' cant get the results your after, but it may fall short of the genuine article

for the thousands i will save i dont mind loosing the poofthints of power i will loose. It sucks that hks dont advertise their turbo specs either.

Guest INASNT
Originally posted by raist60

250 rwkws about the limit of stock bottom end reliability wise, also your AFM peaks at 250.

I can tell you now that a gt30 (500hp) will definitely get 250rwkws. Speaking from experience. But that was with an external gate.

i have already got z32 afm, pfc, 550cc injectors etc etc etc planned.

And if the engine blows i will put in forgies, short penned rods, nitrided crank, ported head etc.

Garrett make the turbos for HKS, but the specs are only available to HKS, so as previously mentioned, the garrett copy wont be quite the same.

the specs for the turbos are here: http://www.hksusa.com/categories/more.asp?id=1092 but they dont publish the compressor maps. the quoted hp rating on the above chart is at 1 bar and is approx 10% below actual figures - thing to remeber though is that the figures are purely for the turbo, and dont allow for things like intercoolers and pipework etc. But it sould give you a guide.

If you were to look at the 3037 kit that HKS do, the turbine AR ratio that is used is 0.87, so close to that would probably be fine.

Realistically though, you could get a HKS 2835 direct from japan, brand new, in whatever spec you wanted and it would probably cost less than 3K. The 2835 should easily make 250rwkw. To give you an example, a guy I know with an RB20 is making 230rwkw with a 2530 on 1.2 bar with FMIC and 3" exhaust and pod - everything else stock. It comes on boost quite early, and it will shread the tyres in third just by popping the clutch (hes into drift) With a 2835 on a 2.5L you would get alot better mid range too.

Just thought I would help add to the confusion:)

Grepin:

Stock injectors NO (RX7 550ccs)

Stock Internals YES (But not for long)

I bought a GT30 Front housing (0.70 A/R)

GT30 CHRA (Dash 11 Core)

and a ARB 0.82 A/R Turbine Housing

Then threw it all together.

This turbine housing has a large flange built on to the top of it so you can pipe an external gate onto it without having to **** around with manifolds. I went a 45mm PSR wastegate.

This setup on my std rb25det pulled 250rwkws at 17 pounds. In terms of max boost, the turbo can run up to about 25 pounds whilst still being efficient i believe.

Guest INASNT
Originally posted by Steve

INASNT, the 2835 uses a GT25 inlet flange on the turbine, so just and adaptor, or the 2835Pro has a T3 inlet flange on the turbine so just bolt straight up.

it would be near impossible to get a 2835pro second hand or new for around 4k

PS.

I wanted that clutch dammit ;)

I had a look at the comp housing on the XR6t and it was only .50A/R, which I thought was strange considering the gt28 I want has a .70A/R, the next time I see one on a hoist I will check the A/R of the turbine housing, if it's only .64 as I suspect it may very well be a good upgrade for a RB25, however I doubt we'll get any cheap used ones as there rumoured to be able to make 300rwkw on the XR6 so not too many people are going to need a larger turbo.

Originally posted by lowlux

has any1 priced up the turbo on the new BA xr6 as they are a gt30/40 turbo with internal gate,and probably a t4 flange????

My mechanic is in the process of fitting one of these to a R33. From what he told me, the turbo has been designed to be very restrictive. They had to change both the exhaust and comp. covers to free up the air flow. Not worth buying one, then having to modify it.

my 2c

From what he told me, the turbo has been designed to be very restrictive.

Sorry, incorrect.

Ford has setup their XR6T's inlet piping to be restrictive on purpose, not the turbo itself. The Ford engineers actually detuned the performance of this engine, because they didn't want their new engine to outshadow their new "Barra V8's" which offered more torque and power than the XR6T & weren't even released at the time.

I would just like to point out that the XR6T uses a "high flow" style Garrett GT ball bearing turbo. It uses a GT40 compressor housing and a GT30 exhaust housing, hence the small A/R you quoted. Obviously this would aid in this large turbo to spool up a little earlier in the rev range. Ford originally tried the GT30 off the shelf from Garrett, but found that it ran out of efficiency at high RPM/load. This is interesting, because, these XR6T's run very conservative boost from the factory, not enough to notice the "urge" of g-force associated with Jap turbo cars. I would be doubtful to the results of trying one of these turbos on a RB25DET, as this turbo was designed for the exhaust flow and engine volumetric efficiency of Ford's 4.0L engine.

If you get a turbo builder to custom build a turbo, you will NEVER get the exact same specs as a HKS turbo, as these are custom built by Garrett/Honeywell to HKS's own specs. HKS don't actually modify these turbos at all. They simply show all their engine dyno graph, flow bench tests to Garrett and get them to engineer different compressor and turbine wheels which fall into an efficiency range that HKS would be happy with.

A GT turbo from Garrett Australia will be alot cheaper than a HKS item, but will be just a bee's dick less in efficiency and power compared to HKS turbos.

HKS turbos should be fairly cheap to get direct out of Japan anyway.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah it is always worth testing and balancing actuators out of the box, just set the pressure regulator on a compressor very low (eg 5 psi) and increase it slowly to see when they both move.....unfortunately while you may be able to adjust the length of the actuator rod to minimise any difference, the actual pressure they move from is not adjustable so you need a well matched pair. And yes, the VCAM is probably contributing; the earlier in the rev range they come on boost and the slower the revs build (I think your demo was in 5th), the more you notice it.  Driving at WOT through 1st, 2nd, 3rd etc you will probably never hear it as any shuffling starts and is over super quickly
    • oh they were with that motor, you need to remove the engine to change the spark plugs (don't have to, but it does make it easier)
    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
×
×
  • Create New...