Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Just wondering, it seems that when my car is idling it has a really faint miss every couple of seconds or so, nothing major and it drives fine under load and makes good power, just wondering if this is normal? It's hard to describe but its kind of like instead of having a constant purrr for the idle every 2-3 secs theres a slight quiet and then it starts purring again.

anythign to be worried about? Car is an R32 GTR.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161260-slight-miss-on-idle/
Share on other sites

I guess its fairly normal. Try new plugs first see if it helps. If not then get your injectors cleaned see if that works. I've just got my injectors done and its a fair bit better. Yet to see if there are any improvements in fuel economy yet tho.

Mine has done it ever since moving away from the heat range 5 1.1mm gapped plugs.

If I open the gap up the idle smooths out.

The miss is stuff all but I guess it can be an annoyance if you expect it to be baby smooth. No such thing with a modified car. :)

Mine has done it ever since moving away from the heat range 5 1.1mm gapped plugs.

If I open the gap up the idle smooths out.

The miss is stuff all but I guess it can be an annoyance if you expect it to be baby smooth. No such thing with a modified car. >_<

I found the exact same thing going from 1.1 to .8 gapped plugs.

iv got his problem aswell and iv changed my plugs and put new spitfire ones on and no change

This can also be caused by resistor pack and wiring to the resistor pack.

Or even earthing of the resistor pack.

Most get a lot of heat over the years and need some attention.

You will know there is a problem when you operate the air-con.(at idle) and it misses regularly.

  • 1 year later...

Have we figured this out? I just changed from 5 plugs gapped to 1.0mm to 6 plugs gapped at 0.8mm and now I have this half miss stumbling sound coming from the exhaust every few seconds. Any updates?

Edited by cpt_impossible

Maybe get new coilpacks and clean the injectors like what others have said above?

I've noticed that this has started happening to my car as well. It's got splitfire coils and a change of the plugs about 3 weeks back and no change. A clean of the injectors might help, but too much a hassle. Everything is running good except for the idle so it doesn't bother me.

Yeah it happens when your spark plugs are gapped too close: from wiki

The gap adjustment can be fairly critical, and if it is maladjusted the engine may run badly, or not at all. A narrow gap may give too small and weak a spark to effectively ignite the fuel-air mixture, while a gap that is too wide might prevent a spark from firing at all. Either way, a spark which only intermittently fails to ignite the fuel-air mixture may not be noticeable directly, but will show up as a reduction in the engine's power and fuel efficiency. The main issues with spark plug gaps are:

· narrow-gap risk: spark might be too weak/small to ignite fuel;

· narrow-gap benefit: plug always fires on each cycle;

· wide-gap risk: plug might not fire, or miss at high speeds;

· wide-gap benefit: spark is strong for a clean burn.

A properly gapped plug will be wide enough to burn hot, but not so wide that it skips or misses at high speeds, causing that cylinder to drag, or the engine to begin to rattle.

I have mine gapped at 0.6 because my coilpacks are shit and i need new ones, but it fixes my hi-rpm misses, so until i save up for some splitfires i hav to put up with the missing at idle,

So yeah check the gap on your spark plugs, ideally should be 0.8

I have the same idle-popping issue.

Regarding plugs, I've read that the amount of resistance with power getting to the plug can change the ideal gap for your engine. So I guess a lengthy trial-and-error testing period is going to be the best way to get things the way you like them.

Edited by Legumis

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...