Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I am keen to get a new ecu for my r34 GT-T Skyline, I was thinking of getting a Haltech Platnium Sport 1000, but I have also been looking at the cheaper option of Nistune and maybe a piggyback ecu. My maximum power figure that I would be aiming for would be 300kw eventualy. I have done a fair bit of work with standalone ecu's before, so I am tending that way. I am just looking for something that may be simpler and cheaper but will still do what i need it too, the Greddy Emanage seems to be a good option.

Thanks Joel

Nistune

  • Replies 765
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 2 weeks later...
Trent sent u a pm a lil while ago regarding emu/vman.

Do you have much expirence with vmanage..?

yeah, kinda pointless on alot of cars, the evos get good gains though.

Trent - by any chance has you tried E85 on a 1jz with the EMU? looking at doing it on my soarer cause we get 2 E85 servos here in the ACT this month and I have the Emanage lying around.

I still want to be able to run 98 so trying to figure out the best compromise of injectors that are big enough for upto the 300rwkw mark on E85 yet still be able to control the injectors with the EMU, The car is Auto so no chance of being able to use a real ECU :thumbsup:

Trent - by any chance has you tried E85 on a 1jz with the EMU? looking at doing it on my soarer cause we get 2 E85 servos here in the ACT this month and I have the Emanage lying around.

I still want to be able to run 98 so trying to figure out the best compromise of injectors that are big enough for upto the 300rwkw mark on E85 yet still be able to control the injectors with the EMU, The car is Auto so no chance of being able to use a real ECU :thumbsup:

yeah its fine but you MUST wire up the coolant temp sensor as its needs lots on temp comp for cold start.

Thanks, was going to use the plug in loom to save hacking up the factory loom.

Im guessing it needs a bucket load more fuel when cold over factory.

yup.

Reckon factory 2jz 440's will be enough for the standard turbo's there is a set going cheap I can get my hands on.

Thinking I really should get some big ones straight up to make sure I have enought fuel for the future.

While Im thinking of it, would rb25 injectors fit the 1jz fuel rail, the plugs are different but thats an easy fix, asking cause I have set of high flowed 25det squirters sitting in the garage.

440's will be fine on petrol, they will see more power than your stock turbos can muster up. no chance on e85 though

and how cheap is cheap? they can be had regularly for $150...

aboot $100 bucks, I was more thinking just for the mean time, but the effort involved in swapping them over and then havng to go it all over again when I up the boost means I doubt Ill grab them.

just worked it out, the 2jz 440's are only 19% larger so no go for e85 even now, need 550s minimum :P

oh well.

Trent - by any chance has you tried E85 on a 1jz with the EMU? looking at doing it on my soarer cause we get 2 E85 servos here in the ACT this month and I have the Emanage lying around.

I still want to be able to run 98 so trying to figure out the best compromise of injectors that are big enough for upto the 300rwkw mark on E85 yet still be able to control the injectors with the EMU, The car is Auto so no chance of being able to use a real ECU :(

Wolf do a plug in for an auto soarer.

they do auto trans models.

are they preset will all the correct shift pressures and what not? if not the are no different to all other ecus.... all ecu's can run an auto if you know the solenoid switching and relevant input /outputs.

If it does thats pretty sweet, but i still wont touch them :D

They've done a fair few soarer auto's and most people are happy with how it comes pre-set. I like to take customers for a drive and customise the shifts to there driving style.

at what cost though, It wouldnt be free, and CBF spending 2K on a ECU plus 1500 to tune, then have to f**k around if the auto flares badly or shifts to early etc etc and at the cost per hour for workshop rates isnt cheap.

Cause there is no way you can program and auto box in a hour of cruising round the back streets.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...