Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all i am back on land of the skyline but now with r34 gtt auto i recently put on the following

e manage ultimate with ignition adaptor and set to 12v

with complete universal loom

specs are

nismo fuel pump

blitz 540cc injectors lag set to 1.02 and .60 for stock

and new roller bearing turbo unit with steel turbine

the problem i am having sometimes you can struggle to start

1 .when it start it idles fine etc but it has slight misfire once evry few seconds but revs very clean

2 . one you drive it after few minutes tcs and slip light will come on and stay on and canot switch it back on and sometimes it will stall

also how do i remove fuel cut

any help would be greatly apreciated

thanks

hi i found out why i am having problems see if anyone can help me in anyway . if the car slows down to 50mph i get check engine light come on for 1 second then go off this uts a airflowmeter tfault and causes tcs to stay on,

what i have noticed is that wen car gets to 50mph for a split secont the output afm signal go to 0v wich causes the problem

any ideas

  • Replies 765
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hi i found out why i am having problems see if anyone can help me in anyway . if the car slows down to 50mph i get check engine light come on for 1 second then go off this uts a airflowmeter tfault and causes tcs to stay on,

what i have noticed is that wen car gets to 50mph for a split secont the output afm signal go to 0v wich causes the problem

any ideas

Either the wiring has a fault or more likely the afm has a loose connection inside. If you are handy with a soldering iron you could probably fix the dry jointed AFM pins, do a search for the "how to", or just replace it.

Either the wiring has a fault or more likely the afm has a loose connection inside. If you are handy with a soldering iron you could probably fix the dry jointed AFM pins, do a search for the "how to", or just replace it.

but why would it only do it at 50mph as it does not do it any other time

does anyone know, with the 'external switch', it is a 3.5mm jack, which has 3 pics on it. does the EMU need to see continuity between two of these to switch over, or do i give 12v to one of them? if so which particular pin?

has any one got a base tune for emanage blue rb25det. really need one asap.

no such thing, just delete the tune in it, once deleted car will run like std.

have you got the software and special cable?

delete all the info in the ecu, and only set the injector adjustment it is also in the software just put i the before and after sizes.

no such thing, just delete the tune in it, once deleted car will run like std.

have you got the software and special cable?

delete all the info in the ecu, and only set the injector adjustment it is also in the software just put i the before and after sizes.

how do i wipe the entire tune? do i set all values to zero or is there a menu? yes i have the software and the cable, and yes i have a basic understanding of the software.

how do I wipe the entire tune? do I set all values to zero or is there a menu?

I gather I don’t need resistors on the injectors (JECS 550cc) high impedance? Any modifications to the coil packs S2 built in igniters, they are yellow jackets.

Jumper settings:

1 – 1/2

2 – 1/2

3 – 1/2

4 - open

5 - open

6 - open

7 -1/2

Dip Switch – 7 / 0 / 1 (it has a z32 afm)

Other 5 dip switches are set to 0.

Also there are two others internally next to the 5 blue ones which are also blue, VR6 and VR7 what do these do, there currently set for 0 could not find anything in the manual.

Cheers,

dave

needs more EMB info:

Jumper settings inside the E-manage:

JP1 Ignition input pullup/pulldown select

1-2 A resistor is pulled down to ground

2-3 A resistor is pulled up the +ve rail

* Use 1-2 when the ECU's driver transistor is connected to ground

* Use 2-3 when the ECU's driver transistor is connected to +ve (5V or 12V will determine JP2's setting)

Supposedly you can see the input voltage in the Main Unit Setting Information window. If it's 0v, use 1-2. If it's 5v or more, use 2-3.

JP2 Ignition output select

1-2 Output resistor connected to +5V

2-3 Output resistor connected to +12V

* This will depend on the ECU ignitor signals output

* JP2 enables the e-manage to duplicate the amplitude of the original signal

JP3 airflow/VTEC output select

1-2 2nd airflow meter

2-3 VTEC

* Even if you don't have a 2nd airflow meter, leave it on 1-2 for non-VTEC applications

JP4 airflow/VTEC input select

1-2 VTEC

2-3 2nd airflow meter

* Even if you don't have a 2nd airflow meter, leave it on 2-3 for non-VTEC applications

* On 1-2, enables pulldown resistor (for use as VTM signal). This is required because the VTM output is inverted with the VTEC out.

JP5/JP6 Sub injector drivers

Jumper off - Disabled

1-2 - Enabled

* Only enable if you're going to control extra injectors with the E-manage

JP7 VTEC

1-2 Non-VTEC

Jumper off - VTEC

* On 1-2, enables pullup resistor (for use as MAF output)

what should jumpers on emanage blue be set to for series 2 rb25det?

my guess would be.

1= 1-2

2 = 2-3

3 = 1-2

4 = ? jumper off (there is only 2 pins)

5 / 6 = jumper off

7 = 1-2

Edited by 32_Dave

The car wont start at all but if i remove the ecu and re install standard it starts but is flooded so fuel is getting in. whats the difference between crank angle and cam angle sensor? it says on the loom for both of these but the numbers on the ecu correspond with the 1 degree and 120 degree crank angle.

  • 1 month later...
There has been good and bad reports about the emanage in the past, Some people have ignition timing irregularities...

Hi guys, there seem to be a lot of people who have used the EMU with success so was hoping someone might be able to help out a Greddy Emanage newb - please bare with me if this turns out to be something silly. I am helping a mate who is running an E-Manage Ultimate in his Honda, neither of us have used one before and hardly anyone in NZ seem to use or know much about them.

The setup process all seemed pretty straight forward, and for the most part it seems to work fine (fuel/timing adjustments seem to work as expected, datalogs look otherwise sensible, after a bit of adjustment to suit the car mostly drives and idles fine despite having 60% bigger injectors/big cams etc) aside from where we get fairly erratic timing on datalogs as the RPM increase, I am sure its not a representation of the factory map. Basically timing jumps back 10+ degrees and rpm seems to drop (even if vehicle speed is static or increasing) within a single log entry once it reaches around 4000rpm. This is felt as a bit of a misfire when driving.

We've replaced potential points of failure in the dizzy and checked for dodgy earths to no avail - and I've just had an from someone who tried to dyno tune their Supra running an EMU last week who is also getting jumpy ignition logs, I've not spoken with him yet but given the EManage is the common factor on something similar I thought I'd see if anyone has encountered the same kind of thing... or more importantly, fixed it?

We are hoping to get it on the dyno next Saturday but am not going to do anything with this issue floating over our heads, so any input would be greatly appreciated :)

Thanks!

  • 7 months later...

Hey guys, long time reader first time poster.

I recently installed some nismo red side feed injectors into my skyline and am having trouble adjusting the latency settings in my emu. I can't get the car to start and run properly and was wondering if someone could shed some light for me as this is becoming tedious.

Hey guys, long time reader first time poster.

I recently installed some nismo red side feed injectors into my skyline and am having trouble adjusting the latency settings in my emu. I can't get the car to start and run properly and was wondering if someone could shed some light for me as this is becoming tedious.

lol, EMU's are tedious fullstop, i spend alot of time fixing up screwed EMU tunes...

you should be able just to input the injector size correction and fine tune the latency from there.

when i exported the tune from the emu it had 280cc (seems wrong) and 0ms latency in the settings, I changed that value to 370 and put in 740 and .2 for the latency, but she won't fire up, just cranks....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • The fab work can be as simple as a couple of silicon hoses and clamps to the factory piping. 
    • Just sounds like either way you need to do some fab work to get everything to fit, so why limit yourself at that point? If the GCG high flow option is zero effort in and out swap though I'd probably do that. It's almost certainly lowest risk, lowest cost, etc. The HKS GTIII-RS option that Kapr mentioned is laughably expensive for what it is, they charge the exact same for two turbos on the RB26 so their margins are off the charts on that thing.
    • Intake manifold is not a part of the issue. The turbo bolts to the exhaust manifold. That is easy. But close your eyes and picture the physical situation. That is a T3 flange on the manifold and a T3 flange on the turbo. As long as any new turbo has a T3 flange on the exhaust housing, that exhaust housing will bolt to the exhaust manifold. This places the exhaust housing in the same place as the stock one. But now move your mental attention a little further forward. The location of the compressor housing is set by the length of the turbo's core. The stock turbo had a long core. Let's say that it is..... 100mm long. So that would place the compressor housing 100mm forward of the exhaust housing. But a highflow, might well have a centre core that is shorter. Let's say that it is only 70mm long. Now the compressor housing will be 30mm further back in the engine bay than the stock one. This DOES move the turbo's compressor outlet backwards. It also moves the compressor's inlet backwards. You will very likely have to do some work to both the inlet and outlet piping to make everything connect again. I am not say this to make it out to be a bigger deal than it is. I am just pointing out that "bolt on" is sometimes not quite bolt on. The highflow from GCG that Murray linked above (https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-upgrade-skyline-gtst-2iu-xtrgts-s1.html ) uses a core that is the same length as the stock core, and so does not require this extra work. It will look very much like the stock turbo. No-one uses GTR turbos of any flavour (stock, or aftermarket) in a single turbo application on RB20/25. It's not a thing. Yes, people have been putting on GT3076, GTX3076 (and bigger and smaller versions of those) and G30s (of various sizes) onto RB20/25 since forever. But these are not "bolt on". Everything except the 4 bolts to the exhaust manifold change with these. And genuine Garretts are expensive. Non-gen, like Pulsar, etc, are cheaper, variously as good or nearly as good. But still not bolt on. No-one in the right mind would pay for an HKS turbo. Not in this modern day and age. Well, yes, the GCG highflow. You could ask HG what he can do to make the compressor housing sit in the original location. There are surely others doing highflows around the world. And some of the eBay/Temu ones (as reported by Dose) work and don't die. Bit of a lottery though. I would send your turbo to GCG (here in Oz) to be highflowed if you want a trivial no-extra-work option. But seriously, the work required to change inlet and outlet piping is not that hard. That's a boost control problem, not a turbo problem.
    • Thank you all for the replys 🙂 I know that intake would be different but that is one pipe at it is not that hard to get(custom one). I meant mainly bolt to the stock manifold and the turbo elbow. I looked and many sites/forums but they are just "old" with some old HKS turbos from GT-R i guess? What about some Garrets?  Or any other turbo? Is there even a turbo which i can just bolt on? 😄 And yeah i know about that new HKS but that is like 2000k USD without taxes/shipping in here   Iam getting a touch up tune but my "problem" is that on the "not" hot day iam getting peaks around 0,9 bar...and when it was around 15 Celsious i saw peak around 1 bar which is just too much for stock turbo. And of course turbo is old and i like to get some new one for a piece of mind 🙂 
    • I'm working on the assumption that our friend Jasmine here is a Russian (or, possibly Ukrainian) spammer/spambot, based purely on the number of such that I have been having to neuter in the last few weeks. IP address for the OP above was in WA. But that could have been via VPN. Posting at quarter to 4 in the morning is a good sign of being from somewhere in Europe. The last Jasmine that I kicked in the cooch was IP addressed in Ukraine. Even that could have been via VPN, and the bitchbot could have been from Russia, Serbia, China or anywhere. Regardless, was a spambot, so I killed it with fire. The fact that our new friend Jasmine here did not respond in any way to my tart query strongly suggests to me that this OP was just the establishment phase of a user able to be activated for spamming in a week, or 3 or 10.
×
×
  • Create New...