Traction Rods

[Simon-S14]

Traction rods... is the name given to that third short straight arm in the rear of a s13/R32/Cefiro etc. Ive got adjustable traction rods, camber arms and toe arms in my drift R32 and i am looking at further increasing my rear grip when the power is down.

I have had a bit of a play with adjusting the traction rod, but i am not sure which way i should be adjusting it and how much by.

So far my rear alignment is like this.

0.5 Degrees Camber

1mm total toe in

traction rod is 4mm shorter then stock.

High speed grip is great... how ever at the slower speed corners it just doesnt want to put the power down, also there seems to be a lack of mid corner grip at the front also.

Was thinking of changing the traction rod length again and see what else i can get happening. I understand that it is suppose to control how much toe you have while under squat... But yeah... i'd like some more info on this!

[dead32]

tried playing around with the sway bars?

[Simon-S14]

yes i have,

im really after peoples actual real life experience with adjusting the traction rod.

[STATUS]

hmm yeah those specs i gave you work best for S13 (4mm) so there probaly is room for improvement with the ceffy. What coil-overs and rates are you using. i forget sorry.

and most importantly what make,size and model tyres.

Edited March 24, 2007 by URAS

[Simon-S14]

got a 32 4 door

235/45/17 antyres/westlakes usually new.

[jbonevia]

there was a good thread on ns.com about that rod a while ago - Trent URAS posted and a couple of other informative people replied too...

i think the final conclusion was not to change the length of it - if replacing with a adjustable one, set to standard length, this is just what i remember though so hopefully you can find the thread.

[Simon-S14]

the way i have it set up now has a lot to do with what trent told me to do

im just looking at peoples opinion as to what works and what doesnt.

What would making the rod longer do?

[Simon-S14]

anyone else want to add some imput?

[Beer Baron]

i wish someone would. I have ikeya formula traction rods in my GTR. When I put them in I had NFI how to set them up. I can see they look to effect a small toe change too when adjusted.

[Sydneykid]

OOOH goody, a chance to get technical.

Let’s start off with what I do when fitting adjustable rear camber bushes, as most people know I don’t use aftermarket arms, but the principles are the same.

First thing is to stick the car on the wheel aligner and set the toe to where I want it. Let’s say 2 mm toe in each side.

Then I remove the upper control arms and the traction rods and fit the adjustable bushes. Put them back in the car and adjust the camber to where I want it. Let’s say 1.25 degrees negative.

Then I check the toe alignment, it should be 2 mm toe in each side. If it isn’t, I use the traction rods (not the tie rods) to correct the toe. Why? Because this means the car now has the same amount of bump steer that it had with the standard arms (and bushes) in it. Basically as Nissan designed it. Sometimes it is necessary to go back and readjust the camber, but it is usually just a fine tune, if anything at all.

If you haven’t followed the above process, then you most likely have stuffed the bump steer, and it is rear steering all over the place. Like it still had HICAS but worse for traction. So what do you do?

You need a bump steer gauge, although you can do it on the wheel aligner, if you go about it the right way. This is what I do;

First thing is to remove the rear wheels, then the spring and shock units from the car. Put the rear wheels back on and use axle stands to set it at the normal ride height.

Then check the alignment, using the above it should still be 2mm toe in. Now jack the rear suspension up 50 mm and check the toe settings, it should still be 2mm toe in. Then jack the rear suspension up another 50 mm and check the toe settings, it should still be 2mm toe in. Now drop it down 150 mm and check the toe, it should still be 2mm toe in. Another 50 mm down, same toe, 2 mm in.

Swap over and do the other side, same process, 4 measurements at 4 different heights. If the toe is always 2 mm in on both sides, then you have zero bump steer.

But if the toe changes as you go up and down, then you have to adjust the traction rods until you eliminate the bump steer. This can take a few goes on each side, as small adjustments are required.

The final step is to make that the camber is still the desired 1.25 degrees negative both sides.

If you want to have some fun, try going up another 50 mm (to 150 mm) in the suspension travel. Then watch the bump steer and camber go all to shit. That’s why it’s a stupid idea to lower Skylines much below 340 mm at the rear.

Good luck and happy measuring

: cheers

[Beer Baron]

thanks gary. you can explain all this for me with visual aids at heasmans next month!

[Sydneykid]

thanks gary. you can explain all this for me with visual aids at heasmans next month!

That might be too technical a question to answer in the time available.

cheers

[salad]

How do you adjust the Whiteline camber bushes while on the car? With the upper control arm I just use the standard camber pins, but I'm not too sure I can see a way to adjust the traction arm bush?

[Sydneykid]

How do you adjust the Whiteline camber bushes while on the car? With the upper control arm I just use the standard camber pins, but I'm not too sure I can see a way to adjust the traction arm bush?

Remove the inner end bolt, pop the end of the arm up and twist the eccentric crush tube. It's a fiddle, but you only have to do it the first time you install them.

Cheers

[salad]

Ah, I thought it might be something like that. Now just have to set aside a couple of hours to use the wheel aligner...

If you opt for a different amount of toe on the rear, do you have to change it again?

[Sydneykid]

Ah, I thought it might be something like that. Now just have to set aside a couple of hours to use the wheel aligner...

If you opt for a different amount of toe on the rear, do you have to change it again?

Nope, same as the front.

Once you do the bump steer correction, it won't change unless you change the length or pick up points of the control arms.

Changing toe settings should have zero effect on bump steer.

cheers

[Roy]

LOL...you guys

Just do what i do and drive around whatever ill handling heap of sh1t Nissan it is you drive. Must cheaper

[Duncan]

LOL...you guys

Just do what i do and drive around whatever ill handling heap of sh1t Nissan it is you drive. Must cheaper

lol I thought I was the only one that did that....good to hear I am in good company Roy

[Simon-S14]

excellent info gary.

I'd be interested to see what you think about my current arrangement, I set the traction arms to 4mm shorter then stock, and my ride height is about 320/320mm all round, I do know that it should be higher however the HSD"s in my car wont go any higher then that. So since the car is already lowered a fair way, and under drift conditions the rear see's a fair bit more squat, i was trying to gain as much traction i can.

Alignment as 1mm toe in, 1 degree camber and 4mm shorter traction arm.

I have a feeling that after reading what you have read that i probably have gone too far and they need to be closer to standard arm lengths.