Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 65
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

so the xenon's on a series 2 are H4 or the H7? and i suppose instead of the oven a heat gun will suffice?

I'm pretty sure it's H1 as MANWHORE's reply to my Q on page 2 implied, unless he didn't answer it respectively.

there was a third series for GTR's, not sure if it was across the range, probably not.

But there were S3 R33 GTR's, factory standard Xenons, red stitching on the inside, and some other changes that i never remember.

I'm pretty sure it's H1 as MANWHORE's reply to my Q on page 2 implied, unless he didn't answer it respectively.

damn.. super cheap auto tells me its the H7 and i bought a pair.. can anyone else confirm for sure?

the thing is, there isn't really another direction that's all :pirate: Without retro fitting projectors. So OEM or projectors. They're the good options.

Look, to be honest, if you're just doing 99% city driving, and you're willing to point your headlighs down a little, you could get away with an a/m HID kit.

They're not the best option, but for just city driving you'll be ok. Seriously, a lot of ppl these days are just driving with the foggies on and when you think about the amount of street lighting, and lights from other cars, you can get away with it.

Some people don't really care for the finer details of this all, fair enough, that's cool. Despite being glary, it's hard to argue that they don't look pretty shmick. And as with most modifications to our cars, there is some law, somewhere, saying not to do it.

If you're not fussed, go for it. As OEM for R34 is easily $850+, more the $900's. I've been looking at the yahoo auctions quite closely, and you just don't seem to be able to land anything for less than $850.

You can do the retro fit if you're handy with those sorts of things. But you'll still have to buy some projectors, and then buy a HID kit, with the D2r types globes, etc. Still looking at roughly $500 for those parts, and you still have to put it together.

So yeah, choice is yours really. This issue comes up more with R34 Xenon owners, as our healight assemblies were designed for another bulb. Now, i'm not saying R33 and R32 lighting is brilliant, but at least everything is as it should be.

cheers,

daniel

damn.. super cheap auto tells me its the H7 and i bought a pair.. can anyone else confirm for sure?

Unless yours have been converted that's most likely incorrect.

Series 1 R32: H3 (high) and H3C (low)

Series 2 R32: H3 (high) and H1 (low)

there's series 2 r32? sure u meant r33 for the stuff u just said?

Yeah I meant R32. Series 1 R32s were made from May 89 - August 91, and Series 2 from August 91 - August 93. One way to check is the colour of your dash, series 1 R32s have a blue dash, series 2 have a black dash (applies to GTST, not sure about GTR).

Bulbs did not change in the R33 range (except in the series 3 GTRs which had xenons as previously indicated).

the thing is, there isn't really another direction that's all :pirate: Without retro fitting projectors. So OEM or projectors. They're the good options.

Look, to be honest, if you're just doing 99% city driving, and you're willing to point your headlighs down a little, you could get away with an a/m HID kit.

They're not the best option, but for just city driving you'll be ok. Seriously, a lot of ppl these days are just driving with the foggies on and when you think about the amount of street lighting, and lights from other cars, you can get away with it.

hey there mate.. which are projector style xenons? which car maker uses them? honda and lexus? those 2 are cars that i've seen headlights that I thought was difference from the R34s..

cheers

from factory?

BMW

Audi

Mercedes

Nissan (new 350z)

Honda

Lexus

Lambo

Ferrari

Porsche

Holden (on the top of the line, new models, only took about 500 years for them to catch up)

Aston Martin..

Mazda RX8

etc, etc... you get the idea. It's more a luxury item at this stage.

Volvo have reflector Xenons, like the R34's. And i think Lexus's first Xenons were done in reflector assemblies as well. Now-a-days, very FEW manufactures make Xenons which DON'T use projectors.

Lots of manufacturers use and have used for a while, projectors, it's just that some cars get Xenon globes in the projectors as oppose to normal halogens. A lot of cars on the road have projectors, but aren't Xenon.

But if you want to do a retro-fit, you don't have to buy spare parts from a car manufacture. Hella/Bosch, etc, make projectors. And i would imagine most car companies would use projectors made by those big companies.

the HIDplanet forums are really the BEST place to check up on all this.

  • 2 weeks later...
hey ali,

The link that gohan posted up is spot on the money. It is the only 'Real' and 'proper' way of doing things.

r32 headlights are renouned for being the crappest lights ever. If you don't want to go the retrofit option, the best light you can get is probably a set of plus 50 bulbs, relayed so that they get the full 13.8 volts (instead of the 10-11 volts they usually get).

Hi um ive been going mad looking for the thread to relay the headlights, does anyone know where its at? I'm sure ive seen it once before but just cant find it.

Thanks

  • 3 months later...

i was try to do retro on my R34... but i dont think i cant do it...

might i screw all up... i try to find OEM xenon... but i cant find them..

anyone know where i can find? i must import from japan right?

if anyone did it.. can i please have the pictures?

cheers

paul

I had 8000k HIDS my car,they were in for 2 weeks then got defected,pulled them out and sold them on ebay.To much glare in reflector style headlights like R33s.Only suited to projector ones IMO.

no-one really answered this but you can get oem zenon headlight for r33 series 2's. they were only avaliable in the late series 2 models, i had some on the shell i just bought but they were f*ked so i cant use them, got a quote on brand new ones and they are $1300ish each light, and good luck finiding them second hand probably anyone whos got em dun know, and if they doo i wouldnt ever be selling them

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
×
×
  • Create New...