Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

how much gas u gonna give it

hopefully it wont need any...if i need to gas it off the line to keep it on boost, i will. Starting off with a 35 shot and working our way up. Nothing more than 75 though.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Replies 107
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The car was started yesterday and the 1st stage of run-in commenced.

If we have enough hours on the engine and all goes well we are going out to WSID on wednesday night for a few shake-down runs. If we don't have any problems then we will put the race fuel in it, put the Mickey Thompson's on it and up the boost on Saturday at Compak Attak. A PB on Saturday would be nice...a 9 sec pass may see me shout the bar on Saturday night.

The car was started yesterday and the 1st stage of run-in commenced.

If we have enough hours on the engine and all goes well we are going out to WSID on wednesday night for a few shake-down runs. If we don't have any problems then we will put the race fuel in it, put the Mickey Thompson's on it and up the boost on Saturday at Compak Attak. A PB on Saturday would be nice...a 9 sec pass may see me shout the bar on Saturday night.

Good luck Paul - I should have taken your offer for the MT's the other week :-)

Good luck Paul - I should have taken your offer for the MT's the other week :-)

Yeah, it may have been just the thing you needed to run into the 10's...well done on the PB mate.

For those that don't already know (the grapevine travels fast) our car made over 430 AWKW last night with only 21psi on a soft run-in tune. This was done on BP 98 and without any cam timing etc done. Its being properly tuned with race fuel (Sonoco Extreme) tonight with some more boost in preparation for Compak Attak tomm. at WSID.

For those that don't already know (the grapevine travels fast) our car made over 430 AWKW last night with only 21psi on a soft run-in tune. This was done on BP 98 and without any cam timing etc done. Its being properly tuned with race fuel (Sonoco Extreme) tonight with some more boost in preparation for Compak Attak tomm. at WSID.

Unfortunately due to unavailability of 1000cc injectors we will not be tuning the car tonight or racing the car tomm.

BUGGER !!!!

Run out of injectors did you Paul??? :)

Yes..initially i was thinking we would but i was talked into believeing we wouldn't produce so much torque (torque chews fuel up not power). I think Jim was surprised how well the GT-RS performed, and to tell you the truth...so was I. All i can say at this stage, is once properly tuned..."This thing is gonna be good"

BU5TER thanks for the offer mate, and as per the phone discussion yesterday get back to me with a price.

1272763imgeditedcopyap5.jpg

hrmmm got duration? any particulars?

depending on the price ill get either the injectors off BU5TER or Theo...Theo says he will post them down on Monday so ill ring BU5TER tonight for a price.

What particulars were you after?

man thats tough, be interesting to see the numbers, and cant wait to see it in action :) hope someone gets some video footy.

a video is a great idea 'silver' ill see what i can do to get some of the full power runs "u-tubed"

oh i see the picture now Dave...lots of lift and duration....lots

yes thats a very wide lobe with a little base circle. just out of curiosity, what are you reving it to? and what duration/lift. pm if you like. but yeah they not ya run of the mill 260's lol.

and what improvements did it make, any loss down low? etc etc. im just trying to work out what cams to use with my new motor, t04z 1,8 bar optimax reving to 8500

  • 1 month later...
That would be Awsome man!! :thumbsup: Don't for get to post up the links! :P good luck.

car made around 440+ AWKW on pump gas (BP98) at 23psi, this is the same power as before but previous was 34psi and C16 race fuel. This shows the massive gains we have made....the torque curve makes the car look very impressive.

race fuel tuning this weekend and a bit more boost.

first runs at WSID on sunday 22nd July.

its getting very close now

can't wait

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...