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great day, i was dissapointed, and will shove new fuel pump in this week sometime. so many cars... so many numbers. the guy with the ss was funny, we all thought he was a bit off with his projected figure, he said he would be appy with 220, despite only making 250 at the flywheel or so from factory, and he got 240 or so and shut us all up lol. good on him.

nice to meet a few more people too.

and the sausage sizzle! awesome. i think i had about 5 blew all my cash on food.

cyaz

Hey Jeff that guy is my brother in-law! he wanted to beat me but i didn't end up going. He was over the moon with his result, but still can't catch me!lol

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  • 2 years later...

After 2 1/2 years of my GTR sitting in the shed with a craked piston while i got married, had a son and brought a house,i finaly got the time and money to pull it out and rebuild it at which time i had a closer look at the turbos and they appear to be stock, i checked the part numbers by googleing them which gave me a page on sau which had the part numbers listed as stock and after a chat with John from unique autosports he suggested they might have steel wheels and should put a magnet on them if it stick they are steel if not then they are stock, when i did that the magnet did not stick to the wheel but it did stick to the housing though the soot, which i would have to asume they are genuinely stock turbos doing 290rwkw, [email protected]

i only got it started last weekend after rebuilding it in my garden shed and am trying to run in, if i can get the wallbro in and get it on the dyno to check tune after not using for 2 1/2 years and putting thiner head gasket on i will for sure, work permitting




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    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
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