Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

sup

just looking for some unbiased opinion on this car, which is why i haven't bothered going on subaru forums.

anyone here ever owned one or currently drives one? i'd just like to know how reliable they are etc..

to past owners - why have you sold yours? got sick of it? too much of a headache? switched to rwd? upgraded?

any help is much appreciated.

thanks :sick:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163526-subaru-liberty-rs/
Share on other sites

My dad has a 2003 model RS. They are quite a nice car. Everything works, is well built. Like its a nice quality of plastics. The seats are comfy. The doors make a nice thud noise when you close them. Bang for buck they are a pretty nice car. And he says you can really notice the awd, even when no where near the limit of the car. And its got a full sized spare wheel!

He came from a 96 commodore. So his complaints with the subie are, its lack of power. Its not a big thing, but he says sometimes you really notice it.

He has had the car almost 3 years now, and nothing has gone wrong, service intervals at 15000kms, so all good.

Id be looking at one for my next car quite seriously.

i think he's talking about the old liberty RS

with the 2.0L turbo, i think it was somewhere like 89-93.

same engine as the WRX just detuned.

i think they are nice cars, was looking at getting one but ended up with the skyline which im stil more than happy about

Its a 2.5L 4cyl. From memory they are just a single ohc.

really? i'm still trying to get my head around the whole flat 4 thing...

they have two heads no? and a single cam in each? which really makes it a twin cam?

but unlike the skyline where one cam is intake and the other exhaust... the flat configured cylinders have 1 cam which does intake/exhaust for 2 cylinders, and same for the other side?

or am i incorrect?

there good.

ausie ones are the goods. they are quite tall geared.

they have a closed deck block with oil squirters. (wrx doesnt)

turbo of a 97 wrx (tdo5) is a good upgrade

brakes are abit average so is the rear lsd.

they are renound to have dodgy lifters. BUT THOSE HEADS FLOW THE BEST OUT OF THEM ALL,a warenty fix was to fit wrx heads. but they arnt as good. converting them to solid lifters is a good idea.no more tapping.

gearboxes are ok but will be abit crunchy.

on the whole its like buying a 32gtr. if its good its great if its not its a nightmare.

the liberty rx 2.5 97-98 was a 2.5 na wrx motor (quad cam)

the later ones went to a single cam per head. better touque but less up top. also the early ones had a fibre head gasket thats renound to let go at about 200k.

the later ones all went to steel head gaskets.

my brother in law had an rs liberty with an imported 2.5L liberty block with the wrx head, also had a rebuilt box with dog gears (T04GTR will remember this car form the last nasho run :) ).

that thing was an absolute monster and handled really well (all upgraded though). one thing i learnt was to watch out for deer though. isnt that right dave?

yeah i'm talking about the older RS's

older model wrx's basically...

subaru.jpg

paulr33 - know what you mean about the B4s took one ride in a mate's 02 model and loved it. nice cars, comfy and very quick.

Ahhh ok. Well I got no idea with them. All I know I was always neck to neck with my cefiro and the couple of mates who had them.

well thing is i'm trying to find a good all round performance car that would fit my shit budget (under 10Gs) and these libertys come within the budget and are good performers.

IF i end up buying one it'll be used as a daily (no track work or anything) but slowly building it to show/go-spec :) i can't be stuffed going through this whole "sold car now looking for another car" thing again i just can't be f**ked anymore.

thanks for the info/help guys appreciate it :)

leetom - b4's are outa my range dude :wave:

Edited by R-SPEC

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maybe it's time for a M3 F80 LCI, and leave it stock.  Drive it to a shop, sip on your latte with nutmeg whilst it gets serviced and on the way home swing by and grab some chai mix for the evening.
    • Great work! Thanks for documenting the process.
    • How would you even adjust the clutch if the pedal already has the correct free play? The operating cylinder has no adjustment in mounting position or rod length. On pull style clutches there is also no ability to adjust the bearing carrier. Push type I can see how adjusting the carrier height makes it all work.   If this is the twin plate clutch did you verify that your friction disks were oriented correctly? It's not mentioned in the directions at all you just have to notice that one side the friction disks have a part number on the hub fingers and a subtle coning to those fingers. Another thing that I noticed was if you put the friction disks in backwards the pressure plate fingers will not be even and flat when the clutch is installed.
    • yeah, mechanically, it is probably do-able, off the top of my head, there would be the transfer case, which I believe will bolt up to the rear of the RWD transmission, the shorter rear tail shaft. A front drive shaft, front diff, engine upper sump, front drive shafts, front hubs and front AWD struts (they are shaped around the front drive shafts), LCAs (at the very least from the front suspension) oil cooler.  You might want the rear diff from an AWD too, so you can be certain the front and rear diff rations are identical.  Who knows what brackets and mounts you might need.  So a whole doner car might be the best option if you need to maintain RHD. Then actually making it work, that would be a whole different story.
×
×
  • Create New...