Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I have decided i want to venture on with my car and get a bit more power out of it. Im currently making 280rwhp which is the limit of my arc sidemount intercooler. I however want an intercooler that can utilize the standard return pipes on my r33 gts-t efficiently. I was looking at this particular intercooler as its not overly big shouldnt be to laggy in theory and if it really is capable of handling the power it says then i wont have trouble handling 320 or so rwhp out of it.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Turbo-1Side-Interco...8QQcmdZViewItem

Does anyone have any idea whether these intercoolers are any good as i was considering buying one and getting custom piping made to use the standard returns. Either that or does anyone know of a good alternate intercooler offering what im after?

Anyhelp would be much appreciated,

Dan

Edited by fEkuaR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163561-front-mount-intercooler/
Share on other sites

You'll be looking at around $1150 delivered from Nengun for an ARC cooler & around $1400 off some retailers (already in the country)

Also for the 33 they're kinda small: 260 x 470 x 70

http://www.arcinter.co.jp/arc/products/int...issan/ecr33.pdf

(I've just bought one for my 34, should be here in a few days & on it goes..the 34's are a more decent size: 600 x 260 x 70)

Edited by so_tred
Just fitted one of these in 600x300x76 single sided to a stagea, seems good, although i dont think the extra size fits in an r33, as the top pipe fouls the headlight

Excellent thanks for the feedback mate.. Could you answer a few questions for me.

Did you buy the cooler off the seller that im refering to or a different person?

Where did you get the custom piping?

What sort of power is the intercooler supporting?

How does it feel in regards to lag compared to the standard system?

Is the cooler you got a 2.5 or 3 inch inlet/outlet.

Appreciate your help,

Dan

try and buy a fmic kit from a local supplier or someone on the forums (traders) which are even better

negates some of the risk. of course if the dude or seller has lots of feedback then its cool

i just avoid ebay if possible and local dudes on the forum (business traders) etc are selling the same thing

you can get generic fmic kits for about $450 fitted now so u might want to look at that instead.

but they will involve cuitting a hole for cooler piping and some fabrication to make it fit, ie: it wont be a kit that uses return pipes

Excellent thanks for the feedback mate.. Could you answer a few questions for me.

Did you buy the cooler off the seller that im refering to or a different person?

Where did you get the custom piping?

What sort of power is the intercooler supporting?

How does it feel in regards to lag compared to the standard system?

Is the cooler you got a 2.5 or 3 inch inlet/outlet.

Appreciate your help,

Dan

I bought it off one of the traders on the forum, and i must say the deal ended up far from sweet, they gave me the wrong cooler(3in pipes instread of 2.5, the dump pipe we got at the same time didn't fit, and the service was plain rude, although i think that was just the personn who seved me. The cars not making a heap of power as it has standard turbo and jaycar DFI with highflow cat and 3in exhaust(dump pipe didnt fit) Lag feels exactly the same as standard, would have prefered 2.5in outlets, as it would have made fitment cheaper and easier, i did the piping myself, hope that helps. PS i have dealt with the ebay trader, and have found him to be great, we needed a cooler urgently, and he met us at a woolworths at 10.00 at night with a shopping trolley full of intercoolers, funny stuff

Edited by Adriano
try and buy a fmic kit from a local supplier or someone on the forums (traders) which are even better

negates some of the risk. of course if the dude or seller has lots of feedback then its cool

i just avoid ebay if possible and local dudes on the forum (business traders) etc are selling the same thing

you can get generic fmic kits for about $450 fitted now so u might want to look at that instead.

but they will involve cuitting a hole for cooler piping and some fabrication to make it fit, ie: it wont be a kit that uses return pipes

The seller has all positive feedback so im not to concerned about the risk more the suitability. I really want to stear clear of all the extra piping and having to cutt a hole, and was hoping to come up with an alternate solution. If i feel that it wouldnt be worth the hassle or risk then ill most likely go the rout your suggesting and get a generic kit.

Appreciate your feedback paul,

Dan

I bought it off one of the traders on the forum, and i must say the deal ended up far from sweet, they gave me the wrong cooler(3in pipes instread of 2.5, the dump pipe we got at the same time didn't fit, and the service was plain rude, although i think that was just the personn who seved me. The cars not making a heap of power as it has standard turbo and jaycar DFI with highflow cat and 3in exhaust(dump pipe didnt fit) Lag feels exactly the same as standard, would have prefered 2.5in outlets, as it would have made fitment cheaper and easier, i did the piping myself, hope that helps.

Great help thankyou mate you have made making a decision alot easier. Do you have any reason to believe that the extra lenth "730mm" would be an issue with an install? I might have to pull the measuring tape out and figure it out on my car. If it should be fine then ill probably order the intercooler this weekend and with any luck get it installed later in the week.

i have one of those same sided in and out coolers was bought off another member who got it off ebay seems to work fine for me so far, my 25 is in an s13 so im not sure about fitment on a 33 as far as supporting power i currently have 260RWHP with no issues. cooler is 300 x 300 x76 3 inch in and out, cant really help you much with difference from stock cooler and lag slightly different car but still runs the stock turbo and boosts hard and fine. in my opinion i like the factory looking black pipes down the one side to but thats personal preference

i have one of those same sided in and out coolers was bought off another member who got it off ebay seems to work fine for me so far, my 25 is in an s13 so im not sure about fitment on a 33 as far as supporting power i currently have 260RWHP with no issues. cooler is 300 x 300 x76 3 inch in and out, cant really help you much with difference from stock cooler and lag slightly different car but still runs the stock turbo and boosts hard and fine. in my opinion i like the factory looking black pipes down the one side to but thats personal preference

Thats not to bad mate sounds like a nice set up you have there. Im hoping that the intercooler can support atleast 330rwhp because i know im not going to take it any further then that. I agree with you i do like the standard look of the engine bay piping. Doesnt put intercooler pipes in the way of things ect. Thanks for your input.

Ask the e-bay sell if the end tank has a splitter to isolate the in and out pipe; thus forcing the air to travel through the core.

Very good point. I was thinking the same thing myself. I will get him to clarify this before going any further.

Thanks,

Dan

the blitz LM fmic's are great i have one on my 32, i got it because of the high quality and because it returns to use the standard pipes

i got it from Zac@ slidewize imports trader on this forum was pretty cheap 1100

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...