Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys

Just finished putting in and plumbing up new engine fresh rebuild ,now car will fire and run for about 2 to 5 seconds then stall ,Its getting fuel its fireing otherwise it wouldn't run for those couple seconds it just wont stay running just pulling of the fast idle now to check just looking for ant other idea's I might be missing as to cause of problem

Cheers Peter

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163575-new-engine-wont-start-ideas/
Share on other sites

fill up the tank with a descent amount of fuel,

run the fuel pump in reverse by disconnecting the plug and running the wires to the opposite terminals, only do this for a couple seconds

return to normal

sounds like the filter in your fuel pump has picked up crap, and im guessing there isnt much in the tank right now anyway

Keeper

brand new fuel pump and fresh fuel already in anf brank new fuel filter high flow

Ken

Yes mate going of the dial whilst cranking undolted the line jsut to make sure fuel was getting through and turned it on filled orchie bottle in no time

Kinks

Yes mate plugged in no afm after market computer

Have you tried actually adjusting the fuel and timing settings in the computer.

Generally on a fresh motor, if it's been rebuilt with different injectors, cams etc, you'll need to fiddle with the tune to sustain it running.

Can you keep it running on the throttle at all?

MBS206

the set up was on the old engine nothing's been changed same cms,turbo manifold cam settings just been freshend up.wont run at throttle

dead32

when running is sounds smooth and quiet sounds good for that couple seconds,haltes e11v2 is the ecu needs a laptop to have a look for any errors and I dont have one atm

cheers Peter

rb26s13

I did think of that and checked no

OVL-747

I thought i might have done that but when I took the fuel line off b4 the reg it pumped out fuel like a presure hose

Are there any diagnostics you can do on the e11v2 that would help you out? Give a quick hit on what to look for.

Assuming you are using a MAF sensor make sure it is plumbed in.

Are you interfacing the E11v2 to the Nissan CAS or using a different trigger system? From Halwin open the Trigger Diagnostics page and make sure that your sensor counters are working OK.

For a motronic 60-2 with cam home the "Trigger Count at last Home" should alternate between 57 and 117 for each revolution. I don't know what the Nissan CAS value is since I don't use it.

If your trigger counters are NOT correct ECU can fire the engine on the correct cycle randomly but it will stall almost immediately after.

Wire the fuel pump up on 12V continous power (not from the ECU)

Or at least check what the connections on the ecu are doing (You'll need someone to help)

So the motor was pulled setup with ECU, Injectors, blah blah blah, and you're just rebuilt the bottom end?

What have you done about cams/head? Any porting, larger cams?

Zoltarc

I don't have a laptop to plug into the ecu to do those sort of annalace on the cpu atm just wanna try what I can b4 i get it towed to the tuner

MBS206

the cams are the same hks items the adjustable cam gear settings havn't been touched head was ported in old set up only differance is the 1mm oversized valves and I don't think thats enough to stop it from firing but thanks for the idea's

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...