Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Oh a very interesting bit of info here..

3.I have a friend who is transplanting a VH41 into a Sylvia now 4wd. The VH41 came out in a 4 wd at some point and some have sumps with diff mountings and a whole through the sump for a trans axle. I have been following his progress, and whilst things are tight it is coming together neatly. The back of the engine is about an inch from the firewall and he seems to have fabricated a neat header exhaust system. You are quite right we are right hand drive down here which has its own set of challenges when modifying.

VH41 Twin turbo GTR/GTS4.

Would be quite interesting. :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163629-vh41-vs-vh45/#findComment-3036468
Share on other sites

Yes here is the thread with the basics:

http://www.nissanv8.com/viewtopic.php?t=11

As you can see the earlier engines were the over-engineered ones, with the cost cutting occurring later on. Early Vh45's are apparently fine with the exception of their worse designed ports and the minor thing of the plastic timing chain guides... Althought apparently later VH45's solved this, and used oval intake ports. Would look like that's the better option then. Just don't go for one of the '96 and later ones.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163629-vh41-vs-vh45/#findComment-3036633
Share on other sites

  • 11 years later...
On 4/8/2007 at 10:35 AM, T04GTR said:

hey guys im just doing some research. whats better the 41 or 45? whats the bore/stroke of each. wichone comes with titanium valves etc etc.

whats factory redline for each?

lol.... 12yrs later, ive come full circle.  doing the same research... vq killing my life

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163629-vh41-vs-vh45/#findComment-7899547
Share on other sites

12 year revival from the OP, that's a good effort.  I put a vh45 in a 350z and abuse it all day long but it's only NA.  From the vh45 community I know a lot of the drifters suffer from oil starvation issues at high rpms / being sideways.

I haven't read your thread in a while but I do recall some issues with your vq.. hope I didn't make a mistake putting a vq in my 180, anyway as others have suggested the vk may be a better platform.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163629-vh41-vs-vh45/#findComment-7899776
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...
On 3/5/2019 at 9:03 PM, 30ed32 said:

12 year revival from the OP, that's a good effort.  I put a vh45 in a 350z and abuse it all day long but it's only NA.  From the vh45 community I know a lot of the drifters suffer from oil starvation issues at high rpms / being sideways.

I haven't read your thread in a while but I do recall some issues with your vq.. hope I didn't make a mistake putting a vq in my 180, anyway as others have suggested the vk may be a better platform.

yes, well the vq35hr is a gun engine, but im abit greedy. from my own personal experiences, about 800whp is the "reliable" limit for a stock block with rods and pistons and a good ecu. 900-950 and it starts flexing the liners to much and head gasket sealing is a problem.
got some sleeves for it to fix that problem. and the precision 88mm pro mod turbo will need that...

i have a vk45de ready to put together,  the 41awd has always been a idea i wanted to play with. but for what i am planning EVERYTHING needs to be changed. but, the 41 is an oddball thing. head gaskets, cams and the rocker arm issue with big cams is a problem. that, and they just dont exist much anymore. same for the vk45de really.
but, the vk shares alot of bits with the vk56, so aftermarket support is better. im torn between the 2.
the blocks are comparable in strength, the vk head is alot better. but the vh has a diff already mounted. but it would have to be moved forward.
vk head gaskets are mls, and easy to find. all the valve gear is vq, so easy and reliable to 8500rpm. and its a narrower engine. but is just ugly... expensive and silly decision for a looks thing. i dont know...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163629-vh41-vs-vh45/#findComment-7932964
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, T04GTR said:

yes, well the vq35hr is a gun engine, but im abit greedy. from my own personal experiences, about 800whp is the "reliable" limit for a stock block with rods and pistons and a good ecu. 900-950 and it starts flexing the liners to much and head gasket sealing is a problem.
got some sleeves for it to fix that problem. and the precision 88mm pro mod turbo will need that...

i have a vk45de ready to put together,  the 41awd has always been a idea i wanted to play with. but for what i am planning EVERYTHING needs to be changed. but, the 41 is an oddball thing. head gaskets, cams and the rocker arm issue with big cams is a problem. that, and they just dont exist much anymore. same for the vk45de really.
but, the vk shares alot of bits with the vk56, so aftermarket support is better. im torn between the 2.
the blocks are comparable in strength, the vk head is alot better. but the vh has a diff already mounted. but it would have to be moved forward.
vk head gaskets are mls, and easy to find. all the valve gear is vq, so easy and reliable to 8500rpm. and its a narrower engine. but is just ugly... expensive and silly decision for a looks thing. i dont know...

I guess you mean VH 41 etc where you put VK41, 45.  I read up about the differences a few years ago and can't remember the details but there was some reason why the VH41 engine was a better starting point even if you increased the capacity.  There seem to be some parts such as forged pistons etc for sale in the US.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163629-vh41-vs-vh45/#findComment-7933007
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • 1/8NPT drill size = 8.7mm. Since the hole got messed up by me, it’s probably around 9mm.    So 1/4” NPT would be next step. A drill size of around 11mm would be preferred there which is not way of my M12 (drill 10.5mm and tap M12 threads) 
    • 3 Kids are starting to hit that ages. I wanted to get them something special to learn on, put down the screens and have some fun. 4Door 2001 R34DE Black Pearl GV1 Jap Import, AU 2nd owner. Pre Work done. Suspension - Wheels Pedders SportsRyder Coilovers   Wheels TSG Spokey Boi 18'x9.5"+15 Body JASI Aero 4 door Type R Full Kit LED Conversion - Parker, Blinkers, & Reverse Exhaust Hurricane Headers 100 CPI high flow cat 2.5" Piping Cannon muffler Internal Bride low max stradia ii - front seats  Bride RO seat base and Rails (R/H) Cube short shifter LED Conversion - Interior   
    • Why are you so adamant on going M12? Why not follow Brad (GTSBoy) suggestion. You're talking moving from a 1/8" size, to a 1/2" effectively. 4 times bigger. Why skip the commonly available sizes in between? The bigger you go, the more likely you are to strip the threads out at a later date, as guaranteed, someone will put a huge spanner on the M12 and really tighten it up, and you're only in thin wall, so not a lot of threads to engage!
    • Hi. Yeah thanks. Car is already at tuners and it staying there to resolve "many" issues they do not like. So it is in a good hands. Getting a good tune on that Nistune ECU too so the car would be good. Just needs a little tune up and love.
    • Probably gonna remove manifold and turbo. I’m not sure if I can get M12 x 1.5 air tight. Could use high temp Loctite 246 or something similar, but I don’t know. Maybe it’s just best to remove everything again and weld an 1/8NPT on there instead.
×
×
  • Create New...