Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i got my car about a month ago and it has an aftermarket SAAS wheel

the middle part of the horn pulls out and it has two mettal prongs sticking out from the removable part

and then a wire on the inside of the hole in the wheel where the horn is ... with a spade like connector... but there is only one

so yeh. i dont have a horn and i hate it.

does anyone know how to fix this?

or should i just buy a new wheel?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164155-no-horn/
Share on other sites

Checked the fuse? Did the horn work when you got it? I don't know whether the skyline horns are negatively switched or not.. I think if they are negatively switched there will only be one wire.. ugh someone else may be able to help you :blink:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164155-no-horn/#findComment-3043346
Share on other sites

i know my horn only has 1 wire going to it, pretty sure the steering wheel only has the one wire coming off it to.

try swapping the wire to the other terminal and see if that works.. if not, try the fuse as suggested before, or even try another horn!

or... get your bf to do it for you :blink:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164155-no-horn/#findComment-3043579
Share on other sites

I had the same problem with my r32, check all of the above as well as look at the horn itself (usually in front of the radiator) The wire may have fallen off there or check the front of the horn is not touching anything, this will stop it working too. If none of the above work let me know and ill see what i can do. Also you can see if the button is stuffed by touching the wire on a ground (the bolt that holds the wheel on should do) if the horn sound this way and not with the button you can just get a new button.

Edited by rtk
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164155-no-horn/#findComment-3043779
Share on other sites

Check the fuse first. Change it out (even if it looks ok). If that doesnt solve it then :

The one wire on your boss kit is a positive wire that links up to your horn. There is no negative wire, because your car is negative earthed, and so doesnt need it. To be honest it doesnt sound like an issue at the steering wheel end. Just get a test pen and check that the single wire has power going to it.

If the single wire has power going to it, then you'd check the horn side of things. Pull the wire off the horn and check it isnt corroded etc. Then get a test pen / multimeter and bridge between that wire and the body of the car. Get someone to press the horn inside the car and check that the wire is getting 12 volts. If it isnt theres a wiring / fuse issue. If it is, but you connect the wire back up to the horn and no go, then the horn is stuffed.

Hope that helps a bit.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164155-no-horn/#findComment-3049903
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Omg Brake pedal removal.. FML!!
    • I mean, I can confirm the TPS is at 100%.... I can confirm when we installed the TB and setup the cable that the TB was indeed fully open at max pedal travel.. the same 'curve' (WRT MAP vs MAP) existed with the previous setup/TB/manifold as well... No, we did not do a run with no intake connected. I would love to go back in time to do such a run to rule out the intake. It would have also been good to do a run with the airbox lid off. There's a test there where increased IAT vs more available air could be a positive tradeoff. I remember taking the lid off my R34 Turbo setup back in the day and noticing a monster increase, even if IAT's did go up. Could be similar. Hard to test unless I find a very deserted road. 
    • That's actually encouraging to be honest. my motor was rebuild many years ago but it's probably done less than 30,000kms and fucc all limiter or drift, majority street / drag / roll racing. It'll be fine 💪🏼 I don't even have lines or a can for the cam breathers installed yet, there is zero oil residue or splatter on or around them, it drives beautifully so it seems healthy. Just a ticky lifter, yet they're almost brand new oem genuine Nissan and haven't done many kms at all...
    • Have you confirmed the throttle body goes to WOT (and stays there) during the run?
    • I'm having a problem. I think it was mentioned above somewhere but can't see it.  I'm stuck in the cycle of, sand, filler, low spot again, put filler, sand, low spot again, now i put filler again and a thicker portion which seems to have helped but I got low spots in other areas. In the image. Circled in red thats where the original low spot was and the shape is the same as the red out line. I've more or less fixed that (still low spot up the top but now I have low spots where the green circled part is.  Is likely the issue that I didn't start with a course sand paper? I sanded the filler with 240 to reduce the risk of not going to far but maybe the issue is that I'm only taking off enough material to remove some of the filler but not the high spots. I now started sanding with 120 and I think I'm seeing a difference. I did fix one dent the other 2 are f**ked and seems like I made another low spot which is indicated by the furthest green circle on the left handside. Any thoughts and solutions?   Also second image. All of these rock chips, can they be filled in with primer or do i need to fill them all with filler/putty? So many rock chips on mine lol.
×
×
  • Create New...