Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Over drive OFF, power button ON.

Step on the break, rev up to about 2000-2,500 REVs.

Let go off the break and step on it.

:pwned:

For a stock converter practice with various revs between 2000-2600rpm, & also don't rev till the last few seconds otherwise trans temps will soar faster than you can say 'V-TEC power yo!'.

:pwned:

For a stock converter practice with various revs between 2000-2600rpm, & also don't rev till the last few seconds otherwise trans temps will soar faster than you can say 'V-TEC power yo!'.

Yeah... also don't do this shit on every set of lights lol (I mean at the track) :pwned:

I have an Automatic... I chosen it as a preference as Auto's launch just as good as Manual if you know how... and in a straight line (with good mods), Autos will beat Manuals...

HEre's what you do...

OVER DRIVE OFF, POWER BUTTOM PRESSSED, MAke sure you are running High Octane fuel (I personally like BP'S ULTIMATE)... Put it on DRIVE... Hold the BRAKE... REV TO AROUND 3,000 RPM's... LEt go of the BRAKE, step on it until around 4,000 RPM's and then pull it back to 2nd Gear to maintain the REV's at around 5-6,000 RPM's... then you just hold on it and pull it back just before you redline it... this is pushing the car to it's full potential.. most races are quater mile... do the above right and you will OWN....

I've always wondered about that... how does a burnout work in a AWD car such as the GT-R? Is it even possible without wreaking the ATTESA and seriously heating up the oils in the diffs/clutches?

If you are going to push your auto at the lights by holding high revs on the brakes, you should first fit a auto trans cooler because you will be generating a lot of heat which is the best way to kill an auto trans. A few hundred insurance against a few thousand for repairs.

Over drive OFF, power button ON.

Step on the break, rev up to about 2000-2,500 REVs.

Let go off the break and step on it.

I've always wondered too how the Autos do it, as I'm in a manual I dont get it.

If you put it in DRIVE and rev to 3000 and hold the brake, wouldnt that just make the car do a burnout while at a standstill?

Then if you let go of the brake you'll just get wheelspin and take off?

I've always wondered too how the Autos do it, as I'm in a manual I dont get it.

If you put it in DRIVE and rev to 3000 and hold the brake, wouldnt that just make the car do a burnout while at a standstill?

Then if you let go of the brake you'll just get wheelspin and take off?

If you dont rev over 2500 revs the car just barely creeps forward. Hence why in the auto revving around 2000 rpm is the best.

When you let go off the brakes, you will hit boost much quicker (3500 revs) hence a better take off. At the end of the day if you have good tyres, there wont be a big burnout... however this all depends on like I said tyres and how much power you run.

My car is stock btw.

I have an Automatic... I chosen it as a preference as Auto's launch just as good as Manual if you know how... and in a straight line (with good mods), Autos will beat Manuals...

HEre's what you do...

OVER DRIVE OFF, POWER BUTTOM PRESSSED, MAke sure you are running High Octane fuel (I personally like BP'S ULTIMATE)... Put it on DRIVE... Hold the BRAKE... REV TO AROUND 3,000 RPM's... LEt go of the BRAKE, step on it until around 4,000 RPM's and then pull it back to 2nd Gear to maintain the REV's at around 5-6,000 RPM's... then you just hold on it and pull it back just before you redline it... this is pushing the car to it's full potential.. most races are quater mile... do the above right and you will OWN....

Keep that up and u will destroy ur transmission in no time.

thanks guys. been meaning to ask this question but keep forgetting that i wanna know. is it possible to do a standstill burnout in an auto as well?

Fully depress the break, then fully depress the accelerator and u will start spinning the wheels (or maybe 1 if u have a worn out lsd :(. Back off before u change gears or this will stop the burnout.

I've always wondered about that... how does a burnout work in a AWD car such as the GT-R? Is it even possible without wreaking the ATTESA and seriously heating up the oils in the diffs/clutches?

personally I just dont bother. If you *must* be fulli sik get one of thoes awd -> 2wd switch's that go's in the fuse box, if you have a 32, or dont bother, if you have a 33 - 34

I've always wondered too how the Autos do it, as I'm in a manual I dont get it.

If you put it in DRIVE and rev to 3000 and hold the brake, wouldnt that just make the car do a burnout while at a standstill?

Then if you let go of the brake you'll just get wheelspin and take off?

Use the handbrake. :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...