Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I HAVE PURCHASED A 96 GTS-T SII,

I HAVE A 3" EXHAUST, A TURBOSMART BOOST CONTROL, APEXI POWER FC W/ HAND CONTROL.

NOW I WANT TO UNGRADE MY TURBO. IS THERE A COMPLETE BOLT ON TURBO KIT OR CAN I JUST UPGRADE THE TURBO ONLY?

THANKS FOR YOU HELP.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164584-which-turbo-to-geta-little-help/
Share on other sites

Yeah if you want a full upgrade turbo kit you can go the HKS GT-RS or if you want something a little cheaper you can got for one of the Slide High Flowed stock turbo's, some of the people on here have had some pretty good results with them .

but its limited to what 250 rwkw ( n is that straining? )

incase u wanna put more mods bigger power even for a show u can keep da garrets for more power..up to him but for an exdtra 3-400 he wont ahve to buy a brand new one when n if he goes over the 300 rw but thats if he is...

i dunno thats what i thought but i could be rong

Need to know you power goal or intended usage before making suggestions.

zas, either a high flow or t28 based turbo is going to be limited to 250-260 rwkw anyway. For more than that a gt30 sized turbo is needed and they start about 1700 new.

On top of the 28 based turbo price you would need lines, adapters and possibly a revised dump so the price goes up.

Best bang for buck would be a slide highflow, best bolt on option would be a gcg highflow (this is my opinion based on running a gcg highflow followed by a similar sized non bb turbo on the same engine. The transient response difference is huge at small to mid throttle openings even though full boost hits about the same time), for more than 260 start looking at 3071's and 3076's for 300 plus

if you want over 300rwkw (comfortably i know theres ppl running stupid amounts of boost with gt28xx making over 300) you need a gt30 series and theres a lot of other mods needed aswell, whats your power goal wizlb

I want the KW @ the wheel to be 225 to 260.

Do you guys think I should get a complete bolt on turbo kit or a turbo upgrage, and if I just get a turbo upgrade will I have to do or get anything else for the car...ie..manifolds, cat back, dump pipes, things like this.

Thanks for you help ppl!!

Thanks for the info guys.

Now just a little more help.

I have settle on a Garrett GT2860R, but is this a bolt right on turbo for the 96 gtst sii?

And if now what else will need or should I get a garret turbo kis?

Better going the Garrett gt3040 as this will be able to get what you want then injectors then fuelpump then plenum then traction and suspension the brakes good luck With these turbos most will bolt to the factory manifold just need aftermarket lines the gt28 series will bolt up fine the 30 series depends what one u go for and you should be ok

Cheers

A

I want the KW @ the wheel to be 225 to 260.

Do you guys think I should get a complete bolt on turbo kit or a turbo upgrage, and if I just get a turbo upgrade will I have to do or get anything else for the car...ie..manifolds, cat back, dump pipes, things like this.

Thanks for you help ppl!!

GCG Hi-flow.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=121128&hl=

Direct replacement for your stock turbo. 250rwkw.

Dont need no "kit" thats 3k. Just a few hundred in labour

Too easy. ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...