Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thats odd, what pistons are they?

I will be doing first start up of my fresh SR in a couple of weeks and am concerned about getting something wrong.

I am under the impression that idling the thing too long before getting into the run in to cause this sort of issue. Was this the case for you?

thanks for the confirmation..so then i just need to change to forged aftermarket connecting rods as the rod shoulder looks lower than stock rods..earlier i think that stock rod gonna fit at first and after dummy fit,it wont..btw, nice project u got there.. :)

Edited by ian_adzrin
  • 4 months later...
  • 5 months later...

So I think my patience has finally ran out and I've broken the back of the bank account for the final time.....

So I've decided to get EOI to part out everything I can salvage from the engine.

If you or you know anyone who could be interested in any of the following let me know - I'm thinking i'll cut my losses and stick a bog stock 26 in an move on....

The List:

Rb20DET Tomei 272 9.25mm In+Ex Cams $600

RB20DET Tomei Solid Lifters $600

RB20DET Tomei Valve Springs $350

RB20/26 HKS In+Ex Cam Gears $250
Spitfire Coil Packs $200

RB20 HyperTune Custom front facing plenum * Work of Art*
Hypertune 90mm Throttle Body to Suite above

Prefer to sell as a pair $2000

SARD 650CC Injectors $400

RB26 SARD Fuel Rail $200

RB25 Top Mount T3 Manifold

Kinugawa To4z/Gt35R * I think Combo* Turbo
TiAL 38mm WasteGate

Custom 4" > 3" Front Pipe to Suite above combo

Kit $1300

Rb26 Crank Good Condition $800

Ross Balancer - Need to check if this is for a rb26 or rb20 $300

Eagle Rb26 Rods *Little end will need bushes replaced as they were re-sized to suite pistons - Roughly $4 each from ACL* $450

Nitto High Flow Oil Pump $800

ARP Rb20/25 Head Studs (Brand New In Box) $200
ACL Rb26 big end bearings +0.001 (Brand New In Box) $55

All Prices are neg. however I'd like to get the most back out of this 6 year ordeal. I Can provide pictures for serious buyers if requested. Condition on all items is excellent and most have only seen less than 5 hours of engine work.

Cheers.

What's hard about it? What specifically do you want done?

I cannot see a great difficulty in assembling one engine.. I would be prepared to do it.

Unless you want stuff CC'd and full micrometer blueprint job. I don't see the need if you were happy to sell all at loss and whack in a stock motor. You may as well assemble and use the thing.

yea i want to know the CR and measured and get recommendations on why the piston skirts have worn so much in such a short period and then recommend a piston.

the last two builds didnt last more than a few hours on the syno and these people knew what they were doing....

if i can get away with it id love to complete it and use ca18 pistons but i dont know if they will do the job.

The skirts would be worn due to bad piston to bore clearance, nothing else. It can't be anything else. It's probably a similar reason why there has been blow by issues (bad machine work).

When I built my motor and took it to be tuned I was given praise about how good it was. When I gloated that I built it myself I was given a rude wake-up call that the machine work was where the fine art is, and not so much the assembly.

That said, it sounds like you had machine work issues on both your failed builds and you should source your own machine work. Then you can sit down and assemble the thing slowly and gap your rings per how you would like them to be.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...