Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

and their high magnitism towards police cars

I'd say it was the other way around. Police cars are magnetised towards Skylines, not the other way around.

Skylines are more magnetised towards telegraph poles and kerbs.

  • 10 months later...

im a bit late for this post.. but rb25 rods are knowed to have week bolts for the bearing cap.. ( where they fail) any one got any ideas what they could handle as i have had mine shot peened and arp bolts fitted..

ive never had any drama's.. even with atmo bov's

it has been a dream.

fuel consumption is good. 350-400kms per tank.

weakness is probably the wheels, tyres, clutch, diff. upgrade and your set.

BUT.... i have had to replace a few components, just as a maintenance thing. be prepared for belts, 02 sensor, aircon regas, tyres, LOTS of good oil and maybe some electronics.

AND I HATE THE BLOODY R200 diff. bloody single spinner. so shim that up aswell.

My family has owned 3 Skylines:

2001 R34 GTR

1997 S2 R33 GTS-T (202rwkw - Basic mods)

1997 S2 R33 GTS-T (255rwkw - Quite heavily modified)

Main weaknesses i have found so far are:

- stock clutch on R33 (needs changing at around 200rwkw)

- stock turbo on R33 (needed changing 1 month after raising boost)

- interior build quality on R33 (generally not bad however bland and prone to rattles)

- expensive parts and maintenance on R33 & R34

- stock suspension on R33 (was too soft and needs to be upgraded)

- MFD screen on R34 (sometimes would have a red line down screen when first turned on)

- tyres on R33 & R34 (good tyres are needed to fully exploit handling, particularly R33, and get expensive especially with bigger/wider rims)

Strengths include:

*Diffs and gearboxes have been rock solid

*Stock engine internals will reliably handle heaps of power

*Brakes are strong with good pads but can be prone to squealing

*So many other things I don't have time to mention

well when i bought my R32 gts-t it had a bad airflow meter and the transmision oil was black and the brakes where gone and the engine fuel was gone and the radiator was leaking and the sparkplugs were dead the tyres were bald and guess what the car beat a v8 and goes as hard as hell like there is no problems in the car. mate these cars can handle alot of abuse and the car still goes. when i went to the mechanic he said how did u drive this car here? it should have a blown engine by now but it didnt, after alot of fixing and tuning the car is now a monster. i have to say the skyline engine is the strongest engine i have seen. japanese people know how to build there cars :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
×
×
  • Create New...