Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey peeps my friend is looking at a r32 to buy and the guy has $10,500 on it. Just wondering if you guys think this is too much or not.

I've listed details below and we took a pic:

Model: Nissan Skyline 1989 4 door GTS-T

Engine: RB20DET

Km’s: 156000

Paint: Dark blue. Needs slight patch up on drivers side near rear wing and on rear bar just below boot.

Body kit: Stock. Fibreglass bonnet with carbon fibre overlay

Wheels: Stock 16s.

Tyres: Front Nankang. Rear: Yokohama A Drives

Engine Accessories: GFB Blow Off Valve. APEXi pod filter. Boost is running at 11psi. Aftermarket exhaust

Suspension: Tein coil overs all round.

Interior: Steering wheel is a bit ratty due to age. No front speakers. Rear speakers aren’t properly secured just been too lazy to do it. Aftermarket boost gauge installed in air vent.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164732-89-r32-gtst-sedan/
Share on other sites

Sedans are less popular, and 89's are the oldest of the lot. If that car is an auto it is deffinately over priced. If not considering how stock it is and its age, id be aiming to get it for $9k if its in good nick.

its manual. its in great condition apart from the 2 spots where the paint is bad and the steering wheel. almost brand new tyres on the rear (so obviously its probably been flogged or just alot of wear) but we've had it checked out n the mechanic reckons its in top shape

$10,500 is a bit much IMO considering the km's on it.

There are a few on carsales for $10,000 with under 100,000kms..

(But then some people don't care about km's as much as I do.)

Edited by so_tred
$10,500 is a bit much IMO considering the km's on it.

There are a few on carsales for $10,000 with under 100,000kms..

(But then some people don't care about km's as much as I do.)

All R32 GTS-T's are between 14 - 18 years old. If you think a car of that age has less than 100,000km (which means it has done less than aproximately 7000km - 5500km per year!!) then good luck to you. Most of the skylines brought into Australia are wound back. I would never buy an r32 that had less than 100,000km and think that the k's were genuine...

So when it comes to skylines the number on the dash means little. You need to assess the condition of the car and engine and get it inspected and judge for yourself.

All R32 GTS-T's are between 14 - 18 years old. If you think a car of that age has less than 100,000km (which means it has done less than aproximately 7000km - 5500km per year!!) then good luck to you. Most of the skylines brought into Australia are wound back. I would never buy an r32 that had less than 100,000km and think that the k's were genuine...

So when it comes to skylines the number on the dash means little. You need to assess the condition of the car and engine and get it inspected and judge for yourself.

I think there would still be a few with genuine low kms..not many but a few.

I have an r32 sedan for sale as well. puttin new (genuine 120,000km) motor in it as we speak.

Odo reads 120 (beleive it was wound back) Mechanically it is in top shape.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...p;#entry3012380

few months ago i saw an 89 GTR for sale @ carsales.com.au with 300,000kms...... :P

Your point? :)

People can say all they want but I had an 89 Silvia that was a straight import which I got in..04? It only had 20,000km on the clock. Don't try and argue because I had the servicing books and 2 mechanics have since had a look (because it's been pulled apart recently to have an RB20 dropped in) Both have said that the odometer hasn't been touched..& coincides with the overall condition of it at the time.

Edited by so_tred
Your point? :(

People can say all they want but I had an 89 Silvia that was a straight import which I got in..04? It only had 20,000km on the clock. Don't try and argue because I had the servicing books and 2 mechanics have since had a look (because it's been pulled apart recently to have an RB20 dropped in) Both have said that the odometer hasn't been touched..& coincides with the overall condition of it at the time.

Then y are u doing an engine replacement?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...