Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Finally got to the drags this weekend, unfortunately it didn't go all to plan,

the car had a massive boost leak, first run on 19psi(with the boost controller set to 26psi)

the car went 10.67 at 132.94 with a 1.77 60 ft, we coudn't fix the boost leak so turned up the boost controller

to 25psi manually(so the turbo was probally pumping out around 35psi to make 25 in the motor), then the

transbrake woudn't work. So i stalled it on the brake pedal, rolled out for a 1.68 60 ft and ran 10.21 at

140.9mph, all on pump fuel/ full exhaust and at least 20rwkw less than i usually drive it on the street with.

Car didn't use a full slick either , just a m/t street grooved slick that i have been driving round on.

So CTIFLY record has FINALLY been broken.

There a lot more left in this combo, if the transbrake worked it would have gone 9 something on that pass

and theres another 50rwkw left in the tune on pump fuel and 26psi still, unfortunately the stcck bottom end

finally went bang..the alternator failed and the voltage dropped to 7volts, killing the fuel pumps

and altering the injector pulse width....time for a decent forged motor

cheers

darren

video -

Hopefully you got some better traction there on the Sunday after two days of rubber being laid.

Heaps of traction problems for the serious cars there this weekend.

That thing is a weapon, and it's only a matter of time for the 9.

If we'd known you were going to be there racing, Nightcrawler and myself might have hung around to see you run.

There WAS a 9 run there by a blue skyline that weekend though...

cross ply et street, i haven't much faith in the radials, as my set for the street in 17's are

are joke and they wear quicker, 4 nights with just roll ons, no wheelies and they were bald,

not good value at $640.

The block/rods etc are all fine, sounds like i broke a ringland on one piston, still starts first go and drives,

just not on all cylinders:)"

cheers

darren

just a shame you couldnt catch the cressida!

and his engine is still running strong...

just stirring...

good effort.

lol yep Jays running on a fresh motor.. Already done one in. :closedeyes:

What times did Jay run? Jake was out there also?

The block/rods etc are all fine, sounds like i broke a ringland on one piston, still starts first go and drives,

just not on all cylinders:)"

Obviously detonation killed the piston. A bastard the alternator let go. :)

All in street trim, daily tyres etc.. Top work Darren.

lol yep Jays running on a fresh motor.. Already done one in. :P

What times did Jay run? Jake was out there also?

Obviously detonation killed the piston. A bastard the alternator let go. :(

All in street trim, daily tyres etc.. Top work Darren.

10.1 at 143mph

Jays "fresh" motor is still just a stock bottom end.

it goes to show that both nissan and toyota 3ltr bottom ends can pull some good numbers

10.1 at 143mph

Jays "fresh" motor is still just a stock bottom end.

it goes to show that both nissan and toyota 3ltr bottom ends can pull some good numbers

lol yes.. I believe his origional motor let go due to a fuel pump/lean out issue also. :P

But definitely tough as bottom ends.

Jay run on slicks or similiar tyres to Darren? Great effort from the 5speed.

Finally got to the drags this weekend, unfortunately it didn't go all to plan,

the car had a massive boost leak, first run on 19psi(with the boost controller set to 26psi)

the car went 10.67 at 132.94 with a 1.77 60 ft, we coudn't fix the boost leak so turned up the boost controller

to 25psi manually(so the turbo was probally pumping out around 35psi to make 25 in the motor), then the

transbrake woudn't work. So i stalled it on the brake pedal, rolled out for a 1.68 60 ft and ran 10.21 at

140.9mph, all on pump fuel/ full exhaust and at least 20rwkw less than i usually drive it on the street with.

Car didn't use a full slick either , just a m/t street grooved slick that i have been driving round on.

So CTIFLY record has FINALLY been broken.

There a lot more left in this combo, if the transbrake worked it would have gone 9 something on that pass

and theres another 50rwkw left in the tune on pump fuel and 26psi still, unfortunately the stcck bottom end

finally went bang..the alternator failed and the voltage dropped to 7volts, killing the fuel pumps

and altering the injector pulse width....time for a decent forged motor

cheers

darren

video -

btw...where's thedrag strip? is it in adl? open to public?

i thought adl only has AIR

10sec car :)

lol yes.. I believe his origional motor let go due to a fuel pump/lean out issue also. :)

But definitely tough as bottom ends.

Jay run on slicks or similiar tyres to Darren? Great effort from the 5speed.

jay ran on full slicks, race fuel, no exhaust, bloody good time for a manual!!,

i think they are going back for 9's soon.

jake went 10.3 at 136mph with one pass then blew the trans, that will be easily in the 9's

in a couple of weeks aswell!

I personally have no interest in race fuels,no exhaust etc, i want to know how fast my car runs how i always

drive/drove it, and it makes it interesting,anyone can tune a car on race fuel, it's full proof, wind the compressor till

it noses over, set timing for peak torque, walla, no balancing act.

the car would easily go upper 140mph traps with those mods and well into the 9's setup

I had 1 pass on fullboost, if the motor lasted it would have pissed in a better time..but shit happens:)

next time:)

cheers

darren

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...