Radiator Problems

[DaGr81]

ROFL i was hammering it down the m5 when i approached the toll gates near liverpool, and my car stopped and wouldnt start, getting my gf out to push the car into the m5 toll parking lot and then checking the radiator hoses the clamps loose and the hose popped off with no water there and an heated up rb, fkn hell, worst off all no screw driver to pop it into place again, quick call to the old man comes and helps me put it all together again, fill it up with water (no coolant on the spot) and back on the road at 10.30. problem is i dunno how long there was no water, and the water temp gauge showed no sign of movement whilst i was driving unless it poped off when i slowed down, oh wells, DID I RUIN MY ENGINE? if so oh wells rb30 here i come, if not damn gonna have to wait until i get a new excuse lol

Also now that i noticed the idles a fair bit rough, and sometimes when coming to a stop at lights put it into neutral and the tacho goes under 500rpm then bounces back up to around 700 (which seems low to me?) also the water temp gauge shakes up and down sometimes, i still havent had time to put coolant in there, is it because im running just on water at the moment........ HELP ME! i hope i havent cracked my head or blown my head gasket. what i did when i put water in the radiator, started the car the slowly filled up did i stuff it up... fark i cant even remember wat i was doing coz i was so gutted

Edited April 18, 2007 by DaGr81

[DaGr81]

need help asap

[DaGr81]

there was also white smoke coming out of the back of the engine .... aww man i really dont wanna spend 8grand on that rb30 just yet...

[r33_racer]

any oil in the radiator....or bubbles come out when you take the cap off whilst running??

Water normally cools the engine better then a water/glycol mix. But straight water obviously boils at 100 and freezes at 0(not that it applies to us) and it rusts all things of a ferrous nature. But alot of people run straight water...with a light mix glycol.

Water/glycol/water wetter

[-_-StRyDeR-_-]

as for your idle/rpm trouble, try cleaning your AAC valve, theres a DIY thread on here about it. mighten fix your problem but it would be the first thing id check if it was my engine/car.

CJ

[Fixxxer]

Do a reset of your computer while you are at it, I have heard the computer will take out timing/muck around with settings when it gets to a high temp.

Although white smoke doesn't sound too great.

I had all the water disappear because of a cracked end tank on my radiator, didn't notice the needle move either (have heard R32 temp gauges are useless at high temps). My car also stalled when taken out of gear once I noticed it was overheating. Had a CO2 test done (I think that's what it's called) and all seemed fine, and has been fine, for the last 3-4 months. Guess I caught mine before any real damage set in. Was an RB20det though...

Get a Co2 test done I guess.

Fixxxer

[DaGr81]

heading off to advan now to get it done, there werent any bubbles when i was filling it up again, i dont wanna reset the pfc wont it loose my tune lol :S

Edited April 19, 2007 by DaGr81

[r33_racer]

check the water in the radiator with cap off while car is running.

[DaGr81]

all fixed thanks to advan, no damage to engine, now blown head gasket or cracked head/block, reason for the water temp gauge moving up and down was an air pocket in cooling system which can be fixed through the head (i'll have to post a photo about this) not sure how many people do this when doing a cooling system flush as i havent seen it mentioned in a radiator flushing guide. radiator hose clamps replaced with heavy duty items. cheers to everyone who put in their opinions and the boys at advan

[MANWHORE]

Everyone knows about that little bolt on the plenum, it is the air bleeder with a little warning in jap next to it that.

[DaGr81]

Everyone knows about that little bolt on the plenum, it is the air bleeder with a little warning in jap next to it that.

well it wasnt mentioned in one of the diy threads so i thought some may not know about it hence i said "not sure how many know about this" you cant assume everyone does coz im sure not all know about it ta

[Trust33]

Are we talking about the aac valve.

Or that gold thing that hangs off the plenum near the oil brather hose??What is it meant to do?

[MANWHORE]

haha, i get what you're saying matey. you're right.

[DaGr81]

fkn hell, the temp gauge still flicks up and down, but once it gets to operating temp (80 - 82 degrees) its fine, what to do, if i was to just bleed the air would it be fine and then top up the coolant if necessary? or should i take it back to advan see if theres any other thing that could be causing this...? advice peoples (im no genius on these things lol)

[Devils_Advocate21]

I say damage has been done no good, in that time you would have done something either warped the slightly or something, something of that nature associated with not running water in radiator and the car just stops?? How did they ascertain that there was no damage, did they do compression tests at all? Oh btw the temp guage wont move even if you lose all your water in the radiator thats why its so hard to know if you have no water in the radiator whilst you are driving oh another way to remove air pockets

Start your car with radiator cap off

wait till it is upto operating temp as in the temp when the thermo opens

watch the bubbles come out and water go down top up until once the water freely flows over the edge of the radiator thats a neat trick aswell for those who havent got one air remove thingy

I say get a compression test done it wont hurt or leakdown test wont hurt either.

Ecu reset for that other thing? I say why you shouldnt have too touch that...

hope its all good

Cheers

A

[DaGr81]

will do that one...cheers, but nah what they did was check the oil (see if it was creamy) check for smoke from exhaust, check pfc, check idle and rev the engine, but they said you'd know if you have a blown head gasket or cracked block etc etc