Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah I have a GFB Stealth and when I have it set to full atmo, it's nearly loud enough to wake the dead :nyaanyaa: I love it, but it just screams to cops, "DEFECT ME!" so only turn it to atmo now and again, mainly have it set to plumback :domokun:

Oh and not only can you use the SAFC/SAFC2, but also using a Power-FC fixes this, basically any form of aftermarket ECU/piggy back ECU that tunes fuel should be able to fix it up.

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

From my infomation a BOV increases the rate at which you hit boost and enables it to come on easier if that makes any sence...

Plumb back is best (im gettin a Stealth FX) and might turn it to atmo when i get a S AFC Neo

my simplistic take on how Atmo BOVs upset some systems is basically the engine management computer goes

HEY.. WTF did all that air go ? conk .. stall ...

( I did say simplistic )

Yeah BOVS improve shift times due to when the butterfly valve in the throttle body closes ( on liftoff for shifts ) it prevents a big wad of trapped air bouncing back down the intake tract..

Please note that I do not proclaim to be an expert at this. just what I recall from previous discussions

my simplistic take on how Atmo BOVs upset some systems is basically the engine management computer goes

HEY.. WTF did all that air go ? conk .. stall ...

( I did say simplistic )

:D

Its funny because its true!

Somebody get this man a pork pie hat with a press card in the band

You need to start writing tech articles with eloquence like that

haa.. at work I got told to work on my writing style for technical write ups because they were " too personal "

:D

Its funny because its true!

Somebody get this man a pork pie hat with a press card in the band

You need to start writing tech articles with eloquence like that

  • 2 years later...

Hmmm, well heres a ancient thread revival. But is one that seemed most relevant in discussion to B.O.V's that i could find.

The talk in this topic seems to be mostly about the series 1 stagea, and from what i understand while a plumback is best suited to either engine, a atmo will work with some form of tuning.

Because my car is the series 2, Will my nistune be able to counter the loss of air the atmo will give or would it be better to just go plumback and not worry. (Yes this is rice( i would like a little sound though), yes i know it doesnt help much with the car, but Its my car and ill do what i want haha :P.)

Hmmm, well heres a ancient thread revival. But is one that seemed most relevant in discussion to B.O.V's that i could find.

The talk in this topic seems to be mostly about the series 1 stagea, and from what i understand while a plumback is best suited to either engine, a atmo will work with some form of tuning.

Because my car is the series 2, Will my nistune be able to counter the loss of air the atmo will give or would it be better to just go plumback and not worry. (Yes this is rice( i would like a little sound though), yes i know it doesnt help much with the car, but Its my car and ill do what i want haha :P.)

i haven't seen anywhere in nistune where you can control the decelerating air mixture the way the SAFC does. unless it can be controlled from the main fuel map you'd still get the stalling i'd say.

i haven't seen anywhere in nistune where you can control the decelerating air mixture the way the SAFC does. unless it can be controlled from the main fuel map you'd still get the stalling i'd say.

Ah okay interesting. So that leaves options with a plumback, or just don't waste the money?

I would just leave the factory BOV in place. The other reason why I am not a fan of ATMO ( ie louder ) BOV's in auto's ( I presume your Stag is Auto? ) is that the auto seems to make the BOV go off at werid times. I guess the same is true with Manuals ( ie rev, back off , flutterz )

I fail to see how a BOV will help with performance at all.

Basically, while building pressure, there will be absolutely no difference between a plumbback or atmo bov. since both will stay fully closed until the pressure exceeds their preset threshold (which wont happen until pretty much as soon as the butterfly closes again).

The difference between them only occurs when you LIFT your foot off the pedal, so there's no way it can make boost build faster or slower. The 2nd difference is after you lift your foot - either the excess air from in the intake will vent to atmosphere or it will end up back in your intake. If its back in the intake then this would assist in response as well, since once you hit the pedal again it doesn't have to suck more air in, its already there ready to go...

I cant see any of that making a huge difference to performance but in any case the way I see it - the atmo bov could only be worse, not better for performance.

The only way performance could increase is because you need some form of ecu/tuning to get the atmo one to work - but I'd argue if you put the same ecu+tuning with the plumbback you'd get the same benefit.

Hope that makes sense...happy for someone to provide a counter-argument since I'm only talking theory here...

Basically, while building pressure, there will be absolutely no difference between a plumbback or atmo bov. since both will stay fully closed until the pressure exceeds their preset threshold (which wont happen until pretty much as soon as the butterfly closes again).

If you are talking aftermarket BOV's, then yes, I agree.

OEM Nissan BOV? Different. How so? Well it has a small hole that is constantly bleeding air and bypassing the actual valve which aftermarket units do not have AFAIK.

You cannot just take the tubing off an M35 BOV because it is constantly leaking air which will cause terrible fuel economy and stalling.

I have been told that all Nissan BOV's have this "feature"

i have a series 2 RS4-s with a blitz atmo BOV. it came like that when i bought it.. and i'm pretty sure there's no form of non-standard tuning on the car

i dont get any stalling whatsoever! :rolleyes: my fuel economy is not AWESOME tho. i'll get a PFC eventually.

Any MAF car will have some degree of issue with an atmo BOV.

A MAP sensor based ECU is the best way around this if you MUST keep it.

The best option? remove the fkn ghey BOV, and if you are running stupid boost fit a factory GTR BOV.

If you are talking aftermarket BOV's, then yes, I agree.

OEM Nissan BOV? Different. How so? Well it has a small hole that is constantly bleeding air and bypassing the actual valve which aftermarket units do not have AFAIK.

I have been told that all Nissan BOV's have this "feature"

There are two ways around this. You can tap this small hole and put a screw in it. Mark the screw when it bottoms and then wind it out and cut it off at that point and cut a slot with a hacksaw. Then screw it back in making sure that its flush (nothing protruding).

The other way is to get a GTR bov. They don't have the hole but they have a different diameter return hose so you will have to make some adaptor.

does anyone know what pressure level the factory bov is good for (in a s2 steagea)? the vast majority of time we're getting flutter... i would have thought it'd be a consistent woosh with a proper plumback setup?

does anyone know what pressure level the factory bov is good for (in a s2 steagea)? the vast majority of time we're getting flutter... i would have thought it'd be a consistent woosh with a proper plumback setup?

Mines blowing open at 1bar, so I've had to block it off until I get a new higher rated aftermarket plumb back. If your keen Josh let me know an I'll swap BOV's with you, yours might be stuffed and it's not opening properly so you get the flutter. Mine is working fine, just not good enough for my setup.

I had a Stealth GFB bov on my stag and it was as loud as hell. It was great, I could adjust it for plubback or atmo venting. Didnt make a lick of difference to power. Going through some of the old docs I have laying around my HDD I found these and thought they might be useful:

Blow_Off_Valves.pdf Discharge.pdf

Mines blowing open at 1bar, so I've had to block it off until I get a new higher rated aftermarket plumb back. If your keen Josh let me know an I'll swap BOV's with you, yours might be stuffed and it's not opening properly so you get the flutter. Mine is working fine, just not good enough for my setup.

Tried a GTR BOV?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From my youth: GTi-R clutch change is a massive pain. The gearboxes are fragile? But the car is super cool and I want one 😢 
    • Remember this is 1988 tech.
    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
×
×
  • Create New...