Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 106
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Z32 Air flow meters

I have Z32 Air Flow Meters. I have an orange sticker on each AFM with 22680-30P00 A36-000 N62 printed on it. A Bosch cross reference document (see the link below) shows that both Bosch part numbers F00E000202 and 2268063107 are replacements. I am also told that they are cheaper than the Nissan part. There's a Tutorial on the Skylines Australia forum (see my main page for the link) on how to connect the wiring.

Z32 Air flow meters

I have Z32 Air Flow Meters. I have an orange sticker on each AFM with 22680-30P00 A36-000 N62 printed on it. A Bosch cross reference document (see the link below) shows that both Bosch part numbers F00E000202 and 2268063107 are replacements. I am also told that they are cheaper than the Nissan part. There's a Tutorial on the Skylines Australia forum (see my main page for the link) on how to connect the wiring.

Spot on Paul, the Bosch units are around half the price of the Genuine Nissan unit.

AVCR, Defi Gauge, and seperate external gauge all read 1.2 bar - no boost leaks evident.

Try conecting one of the gauges to the compressor outlet and comparing the readings with another gauge connected to the plenum. You should see a slight loss across the intercooler and the pipework, a couple of psi only.

:P cheers :(

Rang the sponsor today and they have no hesitation in me sending back the AFM for a warranty replacement. When i purchased this, it did not arrive in a bosch box, rather, just a brown generic box, but in a clear plastic bag. The sponsor stated that a few of these had been returned last year due to the exact same reason of maxing out to early, and some customers weren't happy that they were received one without the genuine box. There is a 12 month warranty on the AFM, but I guess i'm one of the odd few, that just never got around to installing it until now. I've been advised that the replacement AFM will also be another new genuine item, but will be delivered with the genuine bosch box.

For those that asked if the right selection was made in the Power FC, yes it is set for Z32. We put the stock afm back on, and it operated at around 4.7 approx same power output.

No, there are no "China copy" AFM's on the market - That really is a stupid rumour :santa:

As far as I can tell, there was an early batch of Bosch AFM's that had some problems. I bought a pair of them for my GTR and when I discovered that they were misbehaving during tuning I contacted the shop I purchased them from and they confirmed that the issue with their behaviour was a known problem and had been taken up with the company that supplies many dealers in Australia.

Both of them were promptly replaced under warranty without question :thumbsup:

HI MY NAME IS "IM WRONG"

The mesh was exactly like this when it arrived. Other than that it looks like all the rest I've seen on here. Sending it off for replacement tomorrow.

1818103ri3.th.jpg1818105yb8.th.jpg1818108uy6.th.jpg1818115nt4.th.jpg1818116at1.th.jpg

1818117ua2.th.jpg1818120kj8.th.jpg

you are a value to community, thanks for taking the pics

ill put them on my site

HI MY NAME IS "IM WRONG"

Rather than come off like a wanker, why don't you try adding something a little more constructive to this thread :action-smiley-069:

The AFM's that I picked up for my GTR, came from the same dealer that _8OO5TED_ and silman's AFM's came from and were in the same white box with the mesh section that didn't look 'brand new' as I would have expected. I know

I was suitably unimpressed when my two new Z32 AFM's maxed out at 300awkw :P

I just phoned the shop that I bought them from yet again and they confirmed that the supplier that provides the Bosch AFM's to a number of shops around the country is the biggest Bosch distributor in Australia and apparently one of the batches they received came in these white boxes like mine did. They tell me that since raising the issue with the supplier company, all future deliveries they have received have come in original Bosch boxes and packaging and apparently they have had no issues since.

As far as I can see there no solid proof as yet to suggest that these bad ones actually came from China so for everyones sake I think its best that we all stick to facts rather than assumptions.

I guess the main thing to be weary of is make sure you get full warranty when buying, and purchase from a reliable dealer so if something should go wrong you can have it addressed immediately

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...