Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 106
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

^^ i would not be suprised, as i have seen metal cased Z32's destined for the US of A coming out of HK (manufactured in taiwan so usually ok) and these work ok, no doubt there are plastic bodied ones also.

  • 2 weeks later...

Update - I sent the AFM back on Monday 23rd by Australia Post Registered Mail. From the pictures you will see who the shop was, but I am not going to remove the sticker in case of any future dramas. After not receiving my warranty replacement by this Monday the 30th of April (7 days later), I rang to follow up and was advised it had not been received. I rang the Australia Post customer enquiries, and quoted the number that had been hand written on the "registered post" yellow slip. That number did not appear in there system, but they stated they would open an investigation if no word back on Wednesday the 2nd. I then Rang the shop on Wednesday Morning to ask if it had turned up yet, and was again advised it had not.

I rang Australia Post immediately after and advised them the store still had not received the item, so they started the investigation, and rang me back the next day (today) advising the number written on the slip was a 6 instead of a 0, and that the item was delivered last week, on Thursday the 26th of April!. Trying to keep my temper under control I rang back the store for a third time and advised Aus Post had delivered it on 26th and it had been signed for by a T. ____ (name withdrawn). This person put me on hold for a minute and checked and stated "oh yeah, it's here.. we'll send it to you express post today".

Fortunately it arrived today and here are the pictures; The 3 immediate differences, is that all of the black plastic looks newer, is a darker shade of black, it does not have the Nissan Logo etched into the side of it, and the orange sticker is different. All of the mesh is perfect on this item, and it was also delivered in a proper Bosch box, instead of the generic brown cardboard box of the same size, that I received with the original "faulty" item.

I have dealt with this store a few times in the past and have never had any issues, but this experience has been a sour one. I am about to install this after this post, and try to get the car idling/running as good as I can so that I can actually drive the car to the shop to ge retuned on the dyno. I will post an update to advise how this Z32 turns out.

Cheers.

1818132to3.th.jpg.1818134wb9.th.jpg.1818135av0.th.jpg

1818136ff4.th.jpg.1818137ef2.th.jpg.1818138mf9.th.jpg

1818139ry8.th.jpg.1818140ap5.th.jpg.1818141rv0.th.jpg

Yep the last one you've got is a real Bosch, note that it doesn't say nissan on the side (which is correct)

The other one is a rehashed R33 stock item with a bloody VL plug on it or some shit. Even the plastic on it looked dodge, the mesh is out of whack most likely where they repaint the stem orange lol.

My one looks the same as what you've got now.

Thanks for the confirmations and support :) I installed the AFM, checked it was on Z32 80 VG30 in the Power FC and started it up. It is working fine, and is driving fine around the block. Knock count is no higher than 15 from the few times I drove around the suburb testing it out tonight. It's normally only at around 5 or 6, but this should be ok until I get it to the shop. PFC voltage screen was showing roughly 1.4 on idle if i recall properly, and I thinkit's going to about 2.5 volts regular driving (hard to see those results table whilst driving)

Could you confirm where you guys purchased your AFM's from?

So apart from all the 'fake' claims and dodgey stuff in this thread, it seems that it was just a bad batch of AFM's so it's no bodies fault really.

The seller wouldn't have know etc... ?

Am i right?

ie...the sticker is not dodgey ?

Mine actually works, it just maxes out, so i can drive and commute as usual thank god.

Just that I've got a piece of crap that needs replacing and now i have to pay for another tune. :D

this is what a fake z32 looks like

http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/photo...z32/page_01.htm

you can see a few obvious things wrong, sticker crooked, plastic has wrong finish, afm is dodgy/wonky

and it looks overall really cheap

i think you have a legit looking z32 but something else might be wrong? what v do you see at idle?

if you rev it a few times does it return to the same v at idle ?

its funny all these threads are starting to pop up now.

a few months back, there was speculation about dodgy AFM, about the same time every second person was selling new ones for like under$300

i needed one, so decided to play it safe, went out of my way to get a s/hand unit from a import wreckers, glad i did now, it works a treat, unlike some of these new ones...

Think I'm screwed aswell which is shame as it came from one of the SAU sponsors

But wht can i do without a receipt. Shite

The pic doesn't show the middle number, I'll check but I'm sure it's just the flash...

post-5823-1178428827.jpg

I'm pretty sure you bought your Z32 from the same place I did, going by the plug you have with it. My faulty Z32 looked like yours did, and it actually drove fine, it's just when you went to put the foot down on the dyno, it maxed out at 5 volts, where a regular R33 GTS-T air flow meter would normally do the same (around 190-200kw).

They keep all customer's names in there system. I had actually lost my receipt too, but they did a search on my name, and I actually had evidence of my paypal payment, which was enough for them. They actually went out of there way to fax me a copy of the receipt stating, return for warranty refund, exchange on receival written on it.

Whilst this was a drama, the sponsor did do the right thing, and replace the item for a working one, but as you stated, this does not change the fact, that I outlayed $330 for a dyno tune, which I am out of pocket for :(

i tuned this thing yesterday and it was maxing out at 0.9 bar.. also noticed some dead spots....

be interesting to replace it and re-tune it...

Bad luck Jase.. could be worse.. car could be off the road again =)

Edited by Guilt-Toy

yeah sounds like a fake z32

the stock gtst maf maxes at 180/190rwkw

if you have a z32 doing the same thing, its fake

just to note the PFC ramps and settings DO NOT alter the voltage

if the MAF read 5v then it reads 5v there is nothing you can set or change to alter it

even choosing the wrong afm wont affect it maxing

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...