Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ummmm might not be the same car but????

have a look at this 2 links!

http://members.optushome.com.au/rbwrxmy98/gtr2.mpeg

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=36688&st=0

PS. i do have more pics of this car when it was in Melbourne.

Edited by -NismoR32-

I've seen the car in the flesh and it is stunning, drives excellent. Lag then the pooing of the pants experience. The asking price is reasonable for someone who is an enthusiast. Sure you can buy a bunky stocker R34 GTR for that money but, this thing is immaculate and it's taken the meanest looking GTR and made it look even meaner.

I hope this thing stays in Perth once its sold, stationary it looks great but, going down the road is something else.

not the biggest fan of the looks, but i have to give respect where its due:

there aren't many cars that look like they will kick your nuts up into your throat and make you drool like a caveman out of sheer awe of the power. this is one of those cars. you know what you're in for just by looking at it.

I can think of alot better things to spend $64k on rather than a 14 year old GTR with about 20k worth of mods.

Might Be ugly, But they are fast. "If, of course this is the Geniune Article". Hang on to ur seats.

Should be a Vielside Plate in the Enginebay with their Build Number i would imagine. And if it is the Geniune aRticle worth alot more than 20k worth of mods.

If your unsure on the Veilside R32 do a search, There is a video getting around with one guy doing the 0-300 Test in one, does it in 14.1 seconds. Although what people wont realise Of course this one is vielsides Drag Item, But you get the idea.

When I worked at a yard in Brisbane I sold a sister car to this one. The kit was beatifully engineered, and it had 18 x 13's rear and 11's front if memory serves correctly. It was plated by Veilside, and when the yard repainted it yellow (to get rid of the ordinary bog stock maroon) we imported the genuine sticker kit from Veilside for it. Had a big single as well, drove quite well and was pretty quick.

Not my cuppa tea really looks wise, but I can see why some would crave it! :(

hahahahha oh deer. comon guys. you probably would only want to pay 5k for a kpgc10 gtr yess?? dreamers.

thats oner piece of classic gtr. awsome. but id want it to have a full overhaul on everything for that money with all the fruit undernieth.

This car IS the genuine article.

You could buy a peice of crap condition R34 GTR for the same money. It would not go as fast, handle as well and by the time you did mod the thing to perform as well you have spent more than double the price.

The car is for someone who wants to buy a peice of history.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...