Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hay every one,

2 quick quistion is it true if you get a aftermarket computer,pfc/heltec/motec/ems/ect,ect,ectin the r34

do you loose the function with the :Traction Control

I ask cos i got a new ecu put in,then he told that i will loose this function

an also the engin light,the tcs,an the slip lights in the dash permanently stays on

is this right or have i been screwed an he has'nt done it right

also now it takes about 4-7 sec to even start,

were as before it turnd over straight away.an when it does start the frist three sec it sound like its going to stall

after that it goes to 1500 revs until it warms up then drops to 900 revs

does it sound like he has'nt tuned if properly

thanks

Edited by SMOKE'M

did you get a new ecu or just a chip? I got a chip & tune done in my R34, and NOT a problem in the world with TCS or start up. take it to get looked at by a new workshop and a new tune. may make ur car run better & they may find the reason why ur TCS isen't working. and the slip light woulod be shitting me off if it stayed on.

"IF" the ecu has stuffed with the TCS and wont work again, get some wire snips and cut the wire to the Slip light asap. haha

did you get a new ecu or just a chip? I got a chip & tune done in my R34, and NOT a problem in the world with TCS or start up. take it to get looked at by a new workshop and a new tune. may make ur car run better & they may find the reason why ur TCS isen't working. and the slip light woulod be shitting me off if it stayed on.

"IF" the ecu has stuffed with the TCS and wont work again, get some wire snips and cut the wire to the Slip light asap. haha

Where'd you get yours chipped if I may ask?

Sounds like a few minor issues. I doubt TCS will work as the stinger doesnt appear to support it. You may have idle issues.

Why dont you ask the shop why it doesnt start up as fast as before and why the lights are always on? If you did then what did they say?

you have to check if the ECU has Plug N play base map on it. If you use chip in your stock ECU or aftermarket with plug N play such as PFC, then the should work fine...

My guess is your car is tuned with ECU which does not have a base map, the ignition delay is caused by poor cold start tune. It is easier to tune while engine is hot and running however cold start is tricky, as by the time the tuner got the approximately right tuning, the engine would have been warm. Then to wait for the car to cool down again takes 2-3 hours, which I highly doupt the tuner will put the car back on the dyno.

This is also consistent with your idling problem, sometimes if the tune is not done properly the car will actually stalls on its own, you got to give it a bit of fuel... you won't have this problem once engine is warm no?

hay every one,

2 quick quistion is it true if you get a aftermarket computer,pfc/heltec/motec/ems/ect,ect,ectin the r34

do you loose the function with the :Traction Control

I ask cos i got a new ecu put in,then he told that i will loose this function

an also the engin light,the tcs,an the slip lights in the dash permanently stays on

is this right or have i been screwed an he has'nt done it right

also now it takes about 4-7 sec to even start,

were as before it turnd over straight away.an when it does start the frist three sec it sound like its going to stall

after that it goes to 1500 revs until it warms up then drops to 900 revs

does it sound like he has'nt tuned if properly

thanks

Hmmmmmm, sounds just like the problem I had when I had a Microtech installed. No AFM causes heaps of things to not function as they should. Changed to a PFC with a Z32 AFM and bingo all is good again. Does yours still have the AFM?

Cheers

Muz

Edited by Muz

it may be that the TCS/ABS computer required signals from the ECU , such as TPS . This is similar to how the auto works .

This means those signals must be replicated by the ecu (which the r34 pfc would do) or you may be able to bridge the sensor outputs required for TCS . this is often how other ecus such as motecs and autronics are installed to work with tricky features like traction control , automatic gearboxes , stability control etc

Edited by arkon

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...