Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Ive been informed by a pretty knowledgable person pumping out a nice 240kws from a 4 door 34 that I dont need a FMIC if im not making 200+kws ..

Hes told me yes the 32 aND 33 greatly benifit from a FMIC whereas the 34 will be hampered with such a big FM is this true? i plan to get a blitz LM Fm and run to stock piping to reduce lag but dont want to lose alot of power.. I wont be using a powerfc just a S-afc Neo to re-tune the air flow/fuel as all im going to do engine wise is exhaust extension to from the turbo (currently runs 4" from cat and 4.5" dump) and looking at high flow 5" cat and twin dump/front

Also gettin Cold air intake box and pod.. and thats all ill be doing to the engine..

with exception to the fmic which im tossing up .. hes informed me that unless i wack in injectors and turbos etc I wont need to upgrade and im pretty confident hes right.?!

So what do you all think?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165840-does-r34-need-a-fmic/
Share on other sites

Big FMIC create LAG. The SMIC on the 34 is better than that of the 33 or 32.

Get your SMIC flushed and cleaned (if your car has had its fair share of km) and then you will find it will be quite adequate for 200kw.

Get a Intercooler rated under 550hp and you should be fine in terms of lag. Not sure where the LM intercoolers are good for.

Edited by Pauly33GTS-t

All depends on what you want from the car...how much power you want to make and what do you want to use the car for...one thing is for sure...a fmic will NOT hamper the car if you get a good system on there......get an fmic anyway...doesn't have to be massive...cooler air can't hurt...

Edited by limpus

The R34 SMIC is supposed to be good at up to around 200rwkw. I've got just a bit more than that and I'm still using the stock SMIC. I think I will need to get a smallish FMIC when summer comes around as its very borderline now on hotter days with detonation and loss of performance. It's fine when its in the low 20's or cooler though.

With your level of modifications at the moment the R34 SMIC will be fine, don't bother upgrading the IC.

Edited by JustinP

I find it best to have your car setup for what u want it for...

If u are looking at keeping stock turbo and pushing no more then 220kw then keep your stock SMIC.

Their are a few benefits to getting a frount mount and the main one i would say is its there for when u want to upgrade to more power. But you could save your money (for now) and keep the stock SMIC which will be perfectly fine for 220rwkw. And you wont get heat soak with it. With the setup you have described the stock SMIC will be fine and cheaper!

But if you do choose to get a FMIC, let me know and i will be more then happy to buy your SMIC off you!!

Edited by bluey33

As everyone else has said, stockers are supposed to be good for 200kws but I definitely don't agree with the lag comments because I have no (noticeable) lag with my ARC core.

Edited by so_tred

The difference in the stock cooler from the 33 to the 34 is its width... They do come with a SMIC from factory.

This is what one looks like.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...427&hl=SMIC

The R34 Smic is rated to about 230kw atw and is a direct bolt on for the r33.

I just put in a r34 smic and hoping to reach the 200kw mark.

Although ive noticed that touching the smic after a long drive, it is quite warm. Whereas a fmic would be much colder.

If you are getting a doluck frontbar it might look a bit odd having a large gap in the front with no fmic there. Unless you mesh it up.

If you have no worries about the legalities of an fmic (in terms of cutting holes to pass piping if needed) then id go ahead with the fmic, esp with the front bar.

Sell off the r34 smic for $200~ to a R32/R33 owner :closedeyes:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=158811

^^^^^^^^hah you should really do a search but, fmic - front mount intercooler, smic - side mount intercooler

Ah, ok, thats easy enough, I've just never heard of those things in acronym form....

Leave the stock intercooler there for now. Until you are ready to go large power upgrades (bigger turbo), then work out what you are aiming at purpose wise.

The factory R34 intercooler offers better response over larger upgrade variants, the efficiency at your power levels can't really be improved on.

The whole lag issue is missunderstood. Even without going into the realm of it, if you spend money on something that doesn't make your car go faster then we call that a waste of money?

I would certainly look at the blitz/ARC or whatever once you decide you need a bigger turbo. Then you have an idea of the power goals and use for the car which will help you pick out the right brand/core type/size of intercooler.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...