Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey peeps. I'm now a full timer at Buddy club.

I'm in charge of design here (and a good dab of marketing), that's all the print work for various car magazines as well as the web site. I've been here for about a month now, it's been great to combine passion with work, something I always strive to do.

I know many Skyline owners are not fame whore inclined but I'm currently trying to develop a customer car gallery on the Buddy club web site so if any of you have Buddy club products on your car, please email me some pictures, your name and exactly what Buddy club products you have on your car and I'll add them to the gallery!

Send images to: justin(AT)buddyclub.com.au

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166110-buddy-club-customer-car-gallery/
Share on other sites

sidrr20: Awesome. Send me more! I'll definitely include your car on the Buddy club site.

And redevil: You're WRONG there about Buddy club products now being replicas.

Many of the products including wheels are still being made in Japan. The ultra light weight QF forged wheel is made in Japan, so too the PII Plus.

Yes the Japanese company was taken over my AAI. AAI are into motor sports and based in Taiwan. They distribute a lot of great Japanese brands including TOM'S, Autoexe, Blitz, Mugen and a lot more. Check: http://www.aai-racing.com.tw/aai.php

I am not a trader here so I'll be careful with what I say. Buddy club does not sell direct to the public in any case (wholesale only). Although if you are dead serious about wanting something at mates rates then PM me and we'll see if we can work something out.

Hey champ..

I sent you a few links in the email.. let me know if you recived my email!!

Would be aweosme if you could include my car in there!! Would be so greatful if you could do that!!

Let me know if you need more pics etc..

Btw for those of you who havnt even seen the p1s range shouldnt comment.. They are the lightest rims i have picked up!! Workman ship is just as it use to be say 10 years ago.. (exactly like my p1s-- strong, light, forged etc)

Dude, i might be keen if you could get your hands one some orignal p1s in gunmetal.. Let me know if you can find a set.. brand new that is

Even tho i got a set, i want another set!!

Cheers man

Edited by siddr20

do they still make that mega, ultra, super light rims? kinda P1 style, but more dish, and more shiny... might be more GTR offset/size. I think i saw a pic on a demo R34 GTR

anyone know what i'm talking about? There's the p1's which are supposedly like bricks compared to these other buddy club rims... :ninja:

Btw for those of you who havnt even seen the p1s range shouldnt comment.. They are the lightest rims i have picked up!! Workman ship is just as it use to be say 10 years ago.. (exactly like my p1s-- strong, light, forged etc)

um i just saw the latest shipment at access another official buddy club distributor and instead of two piece spun forged they are now one piece cast.... so dont know what your on about? definately cast NOT forged.

plenty of other good products non the less, im just about to use their cams in a tough evo 6 TME.

LOL Ronin, it's alright, you know me, always happy to try and hook a brother up!

The P1's are NOT FORGED and never ever were. The only super lightweight forged rim they have is the QF version (QF stands for Qualify First, ie: a qualifying race rim):

15" 4.65 Kgs

17" 6.15 Kgs

18" 6.70 Kgs

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...