Best "bang For Buck" Upgrades

[sunnycoast]

Hi Guys,

Just wondering what people would suggest would be the best "Bang for Buck" upgrades i could put on a r33 4 door skyline? I am only new to skylines and was hoping to get some of your past experience advice in helping me upgrade the skyline in the cheapest way possible... Looking to see what upgrades have made the biggest differences to your rides.

Thanks in advance

Chris

[blinko]

to a stock skyline u would want to get a exhaust first.

then i would say a FMIC.

Pod filters are cheap and easy to install but dnt really give u much more power.. if any.

[n15m0]

When u say bang for ur buck upgrade in what area? Power or Looks?

[Eug]

swaybars

[mad082]

turbo back axhaust. a must before any other mod. then air filter upgrade (either pod, or better panel filter). then up the boost a few psi.

[Rhinorebel]

Just be aware that if you raise the boost on a standard ECU, it will eventually start to exhibit "flat spots" as the ECU tries to save the engine from perceived "dangerous boost levels"

Not really a big deal, but it will drive you crazy eventually.

I agree with Eug, the suspension is a good starting point as the car is already quick, just needs to handle and stop.

Then you can play with exhaust and fmic.

Then get a aftermarket ECU and go to town!!!! Bigger turbo, injectors, fuel pump.

Then open up the engine and fit forgies and cams.

And about now you will realise that what you have done is made a RB25 about as good as a stock 2J.

Not having a go, I own a Rb25 too!!!

[Revhead]

One thing that hasn't been mentioned is to give the car a full service, replace all the fluids, check the bushes etc. You'll be amazed at the difference it can make. Other than that, I agree with most of what's been said, though personally I'd prioritise things a little differently.

1. DECENT TYRES!!

2. Suspension (don't go ridiculously hard, it'll ride and handle crap and you'll probably be slower) and decent brake pads with a fluid flush

3. Full exhaust

4. Wastegate bleed (increase boost), to 11 or 12 psi... insert disclaimer here

5. Pod filter with partition and cold-air feed, or decent airbox and quality panel filter (in my experience the factory R33 airbox is crap, see below)

6. Front-mount intercooler

I'd also recommend a good aftermarket computer - by far the most popular is the PowerFC from Apexi, but there are some very good options such as Haltech that will do almost all of what the PFC does, plus a heap of other stuff. It may not give you a heap of power by itself, but will allow you to get the best out of the mods that you do now and in the future, and a decent tune will make the car smoother, quicker and probably more efficient too. Not massively cheap depending on how you go, but most definitely worth it, particularly given that the factory computer has atrocious fuelling once boost rises above factory.

Don't be tempted to get an aftermarket blow-off valve unless you particularly want it for wank factor, the factory one should do the job nicely - with a basic zero-cost mod, mine held 23 psi without a problem. If you do change it because the factory one is faulty or something, I'd strongly recommend you replace it with another recirculating one (rather than venting), it'll keep the computer happy if you stick with an AFM and it's one less thing to be defected for.

Beyond that, you start getting into the expensive bits

Pod filters are cheap and easy to install but dnt really give u much more power.. if any.

There was a noticeable difference in power in my old 33 between a pod and the stock airbox with a "high flow" panel filter, I reset the ECU before and after then swapped back to the pod and reset the ECU again just to be sure. So for me, a pod definitely made power over the stock airbox (which surprised the hell out of me to be honest) and was a heap cheaper than a decent airbox at the time too. So my advice would be to try it and see if it works for you

Edit: zomg Dave, we think so alike

[Demoniak]

2 cheapest things that will get you bang for buck

Sway bars // strut bars

(50-200 bucks per depending on brand and if its second hand etc)

if you got to the wreckers you may get lucky and get some bars that are in good nick.

Pod filter...

just remember that if you dont put some kind of partition in there you are basicly sucking more hot air in the the standard box.. but the box was at least sucking in cold air..

Pod filter you can get an apexi one from Slide Performance ( who are a supplier on the forum) for under 90 bucks delivered

Dont bother with a BOV... theres also a cheap way to get a steady amount of boost from your stock solnoid which is on the "how to" section of the forums..i did it to my car and it cost me like 1 dollar ( welding metal ) and i noticed the difference straight away.

FMIC and suspension would be the next step.

But dave and marc hit it on the head.. remember to get some basics done first before you put the "fully hectic" zaust and turbo on it.

[sunnycoast]

Wow - thanks for all of your kind help I really appreciate all of the ideas you have given me.

So far i have done the following to my car:

- Strut Brace

- Engine Damper

- FMIC

-18" Rims & Tires

-100,000km Service. All pulleys, Fluids, Etc..

-Clear Nismo side indicators

- K&N Pod Filter

- Boost Controller

- Boost Gauge

- Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge

I guess i would be looking at the next step in gathering advice on where to spend money, again "bang for buck" for upgrages that would inprove my stablity and engine speed/power.

Thanks in advance, and again, you guys have been very helpful.

Cheers

Christian

[Revhead]

No probs, good to see another new face on SAU

You don't mention springs/shocks or brake pads, if they're still factory (or factory spec) then replace them with something suitable for your purposes, eg street, drift, drag, whatever. The gear you should get really depends on what you're planning on doing with it. You also haven't mentioned an aftermarket exhaust, but I'll assume you have one - if it's only cat-back, change the dump and cat too for a worthwhile increase.

If you are still running stock boost, bump it up a few pounds to 10psi or so - as with anything, taking it beyond factory specs can cause early failure but 10psi is pretty safe, 12psi is about the commonly accepted 'safe limit', and 14psi is where people seem to start losing the exhaust wheels from their stock turbos. I've seen people run 14+ psi for years without a problem, and other who have blown a turbo at less... it really depends on luck, how well it's looked after, how you drive it, the condition of the turbo and how good the tune is.

Next thing I'd do is engine computer (ECU). Once you've done that you can start fiddling with injectors/fuel pump, bigger air-flow meter (AFM), then a hi-flow turbo, or straight to internals and a big turbo. The sky (and the size of your bank balance) is really the limit.

[Oblivion]

Also like Rev said it depends on what you want from your car?

if you want big power then it is going to blow until you get your speed up, as there will be no response, many people settle for a happy medium though. or if you want to do circuit then response is prob what you want. Smaller turbo...lower horse power but when you plant your foot you dont get lag.

you can also go all out and rivit or seam weld your car if you want it to really handle.

[jlnewton]

A good example of bang for buck in R33 sedans is here

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=147957

Pretty quick around QR, pretty quick down the 1/4 for what it is, easy to slide around the skidpan, comfortable to do long trips in, quiet and good on fuel. It only took me 4 R33s to get it right! And no FMIC!

[Col-GTSX]

You will get an even bigger responce if you put your topic in the right area of the forum.

Forced Induction is the best palce for it, Moved.

Also you will find a million topics in here with a similar title if you do a search.

[shanef]

NOS

and im being serious

[Public Enemy]

NOS

and im being serious

+1

$1000 for wet fogger NOS system and it will run 11's.