Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

How did the power go with the richer afr's? Didn't drop too much?

Na i got some cam gears aswell and shaun managed to keep the power pretty much the same.

Awesome turbo those td06-20g's. On the std exhaust manifold or a nice highmount (Troy style)?

I'm to poor for the highmount, so standard manifold for me. Also keeps the cops away.

also sorry how much r the td06-20g???

Got it for 1200

Edited by Ronin

Here's my dyno sheet. Got a bit heat soaked after a fair few consecutive runs and dropped 5rwkw.

Dynosmall-1.jpgTurbo Tune's dyno is very new and apparently very accurate.

Calculated when I get full boost again, I get it by 3000rpm :ninja: So 200rpm earlier than what I said before! (edited that)

(calculated using gear ratios, not what the gay tacho says)

Everything will line up on the RB25 turbo to R32s except for the quite early models which have different size banjo bolts for the water lines (7/8" instead of 15/16" for the RB25 turbo)

Edited by salad

They are in completely different leagues. The TD06-20G is rated at 450ps (I think) where as the HKS GT2530 is only rated to 320ps.

2530 is only capable of around 220rwkw, where as TD06-20G can pull over 260rwkw

My HKS 2530 is making 230rwkw and that is through an auto box, with only an SAFCII (so Power FC = no timing or other adjustments).

Yes, as Evil34 said my R34 Neo turbo is for sale $450. Perfect condition, no shaft play, will bolt-on.

I disagree with Joel's statement - the R34 Neo turbo is basically lag-free! Even though the 2530 is rated to be extremely lag friendly, the Neo turbo definitely spools up earlier!

I also have an all-in-one front/dump pipe to suit for that bit of extra grunt $200.

For an afternoons work in the garage a very nice upgrade that will see you around 180rwkw without any tuning and stock boost. Mine was 177rwkw before I pulled it off at stock boost.

yeah she goes pretty hard - the auto loves it too! Took Munro for a drive in the other day and he was pretty impressed :)

Oh yeah, if anyone is interested in Skyline bits I am selling my turbo and lots and lots and lots of other (mostly R33) bits here (click)

I disagree with Joel's statement - the R34 Neo turbo is basically lag-free! Even though the 2530 is rated to be extremely lag friendly, the Neo turbo definitely spools up earlier!

Andrew you missunderstood my statement. :)

The R34 GTT turbo DOES lag more than the R33 S2 turbo. No if's no buts.

The reason Nissan was able to step up the turbine housing on the Neo motor without having increased lag issues was due to the head running better cams that pick up low end torque, improved VCT operation and improved ecu mapping.

The R34 GTT turbo is a great turbo don't get me wrong. BUT for the RB20DET the R33 S2 turbo is THE best turbo out of the nissan RB turbo line up.

Saying that the R34 GTT turbo may make ever so slightly more peak power than the R33 S2 turbo. BUT as I mentioned earlier, on the RB20DET average power is what accelerates the car quicker to its peak power. :D

ah yeah mate my bad, you are correct. Also the nylon impeller is what counteracts some of the extra lag from the larger housing. The Neo turbo would be fine on an RB25DET in an R33 though. More top end power too.

finnally installed an RB25 turbo to my RB20 after seeing it reccomended alot. definately feels laggier, but i rekon alot of that will go by putting a decent exhuast back on (went from 3.5 staright through, to stock). up high the difference is massive, boost is smooth and really strong once u get the RPM a bit, alot stronger than the rb20 turbo up high.

  • 1 year later...

So what ya'll saying is that the vg30 turbo is too laggy on the rb20det motor

what turbo are you talking about

The jurnal bearing t3 style vg30det turbo?

or

The ball bearing t3 style vg30det turbo?

cause i have heard about some good setups with the vg30det ball-bearing turbo

I have had a stock silver -top RB20 turbo, a VG30 ball bearing and an RB25 Neo turbo on my RB20DET. I distinclty remember loving the VG30 when I put it on because it gave a fair bit extra kick; but it comes on far too late. I drove around for many years with this.

About a year ago I went to th RB25 Neo which is a massive improvement over the VG30, the car feels just as fast but with much less lag; having said that I would prefer less lag from the RB25 Neo to the point where I would go to the Series 2 R33 RB25 turbo next time just on peoples' say so.

^^^ The R34 Neo turbo is by far the most responsive turbo of any Nissan oem turbo, as it has a lightweight nylon impeller.

If you were going to change to a Series 2 R33 turbo expecting less lag, you would be very sorely disappointed.

Holy thread revival Batman

My current RB20 with a VG30 turbo feels a fuckton nicer on the street than my old RB20 with R33 series 2 turbo, so much torquier. Being 2 different engines it could be any number of things but all I know is my current car pulls way harder in low rpm than the old one, with a supposedly laggier turbo :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
×
×
  • Create New...