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Hey guys

I will hopefully be getting my car tuned in the next couple of months and am hoping to reach my goal of 250rwkw, i will have all the usual supporting mods etc etc, the question i am asking is will the stock rubber intake pipe be up to the task of 250rwkw or will it simply suck closed, i have read of some people having this problem but have also read of people making more power than me and have never had the pipe suck closed, is there any solid evidence anywere as to when the stock pipe will become a restriction and get sucked closed.

Any advice and help would be very much appreciated, i would hate to end up getting half way threw a tune to have this problem :thanks:

Cheers.

Edited by nizmo_freek
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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166842-stock-rubber-intake-pipe/
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I don't think theres a definate answer. It depends on the condition of your stock hose as well. If you don't want it to suck close then simply prevent it. :thanks: Either get a metal intake pipe or cut the stock pipe where it usually gets sucked closed and replace that with a metal bend there.

Thats what they did in one of the HPI videos and it worked well, retained the stock look as well.

before it even sucks closed a decent rigid intake pipe will net you much less restriction. It's 5-7hp worth changing it without the sucking closed issue due to the crappy restrictive ribbed design. There has been testing with manometer and dyno to verify this some time back on the VL turbo stock intake, which looks pretty much identical.

They're quite soft aren't they. I got 2 or 3 large hose clamps and put it around the pipe in a couple of different sections. Made it twice as rigid.

Ive actually seen this done before, im pretty sure it was on the mines r34, they had put one of those wire clamps (has two peices of wire and instead of one big worm drive clamp, just like the stock radiator hose clamps but alot bigger ofcourse) on each of the ribs, dosent seem like a bad idea if you ask me, i was originally thinking of somehow putting a thick peice of coiled wire inside each of the ribs in the intake pipe, the only problem would be securing the wire there good enough so that it dosent come loose and damage the turbo.

Maybe i should just get off my ass and make an intake pipe lol, has anyone had any problem with using a metal intake pipe with the standard ecu? if heard of a few people having stalling problems, but i think there bov return location was in a different place compared to were it normally is on the stock pipe.

They're quite soft aren't they. I got 2 or 3 large hose clamps and put it around the pipe in a couple of different sections. Made it twice as rigid.

Any chance you have some decent pics? :huh:

Sometime in the near future, i will be fabricating a stainless steel polished intake for a fellow sau member on an r33.

if there is enough interest i can make a jig up and make ten or so.

Here is one i made up for a vr4 galant ... purge welded and polished.

post-14765-1178007115.jpg

post-14765-1178007247.jpg

post-14765-1178007290.jpg

Sometime in the near future, i will be fabricating a stainless steel polished intake for a fellow sau member on an r33.

if there is enough interest i can make a jig up and make ten or so.

Here is one i made up for a vr4 galant ... purge welded and polished.

Very nice, what sort of price would you be charging for those? and if you did go ahead and start making them would you make them with the holes for the stock bov plumback line and the stock breather line? (it would also be a bonus if if could fit the stock airbox), there was a group buy a while ago on these but it didnt seem to go to well, as the had put the hole for the bov and breather to far up near the AFM instead of near the turbo, which meant you had to modify a few things to make it fit right. Heres a link to the thread im talking about http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...ess+intake+pipe

I would be very interested in one,and im sure a few others would be to, depending on how soon you mean by "the near future" as i will be getting my car tuned in a few months so would need it by then, which is the reason why i started this thread.

Cheers

Edited by nizmo_freek

The kits don't fit standard airbox in. If you wanted to keep the airbox you'd be better off to just cut away a section of the wider rubber intake and replace with SS.

With kit I bought the BOV return didn't even line up, so I'm wishing I would have just made my own up. Seriously, all they are a 90degree piece of stainless

Edited by BAMR33
  • 3 weeks later...

I have decided to make the intake pipe myself, i will be using a 600mm 3" 90degree bend peice of alloy pipe for the intake pipe which i will obviously have to trim down to make fit, a 3" 45 degree silicone bend to go from the end of the intake pipe to the end of the AFM, some alloy pipe from work that is the same size as the stock plumback line which will be welded to the intake pipe so i can join it to the stock plumback line, a 90degree peice radiator hose that also fits nicely over the stock plumback line (i have this left over from when i moved the stock bov on my rb20det when i got a front facing plenum) a 2.5"?? to 3" siliconce reducer to go from the turbo to the start of the intake pipe ,i will take it to my local engineer to have all welded up and then may paint it black for the "stealth" look lol.

On question i have is does anyone know the exaxct size of the stock turbos inlet/inducer?? im pretty sure its 2.5", but please correct me if im wrong, i dont have the time to go and take all might intercooler pipes off just to get the intake pipe off so if someone could tell me what size it is that would be awsome?

So all up it should cost somewere around $150 max, which isnt to bad i spose (alot better than having the stock intake pipe shut while im on the dyno) ,i will post pics once its all done, hopefully everything will go to plan and bolt up nicely :kiss:

the answer is quite simple.

Stock air box = air intake collaspe at 250 rwkw for sure.

Clamps around the pipe? not sure how thats gonna stop it from sucking in?

There are some aftermarket intakes for pods only but I looked at their design and wan't happy with the use of the quality. Mine has been made, just havnt fitted it - will when I take it to get some stuff done soon. I have designed it to fit with the stock air box so i can run either a pod or the airbox.

Based on my testing, the air box is restrictive at these power levels. For any1 who thinks otherwise why does it suck closed int he first place? You either cut some holes in the top of the stock box or do like the GTR version and run an extra intake from say the wheel arc.

If you use a pod, you wont have the issue peroid.

the answer is quite simple.

Stock air box = sticked in air intake at 250 rwkw for sure.

There are some aftermarket intakes but I looked at their design and wan't happy with the use of the quality. Mine has been made, just havnt fitted it - will when I take it to get some stuff done soon.

If you use a pod, you wont have the issue peroid.

I have read that it sucks in when using a pod also, not just the stock airbox, so i would rather spend a few $ and make sure it dosent happen alltogether, would be a complete pain in the ass driving 1 1/2 hours to my tuner ,getting half way through the tune and finding out the pipe is sucking closed, driving 1 1/2 hours back home, making a intake pipe and then driving back to my tuner again, i would rather have it all sorted before it gets tuned.

Edited by nizmo_freek
I have read that it sucks in when using a pod also, not just the stock airbox, so i would rather spend a few $ and make sure it dosent happen alltogether, would be a complete pain in the ass driving 1 1/2 hours to my tuner ,getting half way through the tune and finding out the pipe is sucking closed, driving 1 1/2 hours back home, making a intake pipe and then driving back to my tuner again, i would rather have it all sorted before it gets tuned.

you can read, I have tested - on and off the dyno. I have looked at the deflection under full load with a pod and airbox and with a pod it was not much. Try it with the air box lid off..magic - it doesnt do it.

Thats my answer and I'm running over 250 rwkw.

Dont disagree with getting a new one however - I think its a good idea.

you can read, I have tested - on and off the dyno. I have looked at the deflection under full load with a pod and airbox and with a pod it was not much. Try it with the air box lid off..magic - it doesnt do it.

Thats my answer and I'm running over 250 rwkw.

Dont disagree with getting a new one however - I think its a good idea.

Yea im still going to make one i think, im also undecided at the moment wheather or not i should use the stock airbox when its all getting tuned, or use a pod, the pod sound can be a bit annoying sometimes, i guess i could use my stock airbox while its getting tuned and if it does start to become a restriction swap it for my pod while im there.

Can someone please confirm that the stock turbo intake/inducer is 2.5"??

Cheers

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