Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i also heard of this happening so i got a stainless one fabricated for me for 100-150 cant remember when i put on a Z32afm and a few other things, being stainless it looks good as well as serves a good purpose... also it stops the pod from moving so i didnt need to put a bracket to hold it steady.. didnt think the price was too bad

can anyone confirm that the stockR33 turbo will need a 3-2.5 inch silicon reducer?

Ditto, i would really like to know the same thing before i go and buy the wrong one, i just need confirmation that the stock turbo inlet is 2.5"??

Cheers

P.S, i should hopefully be starting sometime this week and will be using 3" polished alloy pipe insteas of stainless

i had my stock rubber pipe on and made 191rwkw wit usual mods + safc and gt2535 on 14psi ona r33, changed my plugs and took my stock rubber pipe in2 an exhaust place, the copied it, changed me $40, also put the small pipes for the plumback and oil breather.

slaped it on and got a retune and made 200rwkw, plugs wouldnt have made me more kilowatts, so the $40 must have made me some power as i didnt touch the engine before

Definatly agree with changing it to make it more solid. One of the guys at my work had it happening to his 180sx. He said he just fed in a steel coil spring like thing. No problems after that. But personally id go the alloy way. If your gonna go through the hassle of playing around with it u may aswell change it all together, not to mention tidy it up a bit. In my opinion the stock rubber pipe is an ugly piece of sh*t that lets that side of the engine bay down and makes it look cheap and nasty haha. Metal will make a world of differance

Finally i have found out what size the turbo inlet is, thanks NYTSKY for measuring your turbo for me :D, it is 59mm which is 2.25", so i have just ordered my 3" 90degree alloy pipe and 2.25" -3" silicon reducer, hopefully i will have this finshed sometime this week if im lucky, i will post pics of the finished product.

yes the turbo inlet is 2.25 inch,

I have fitted a 3 inch metal pipe and the car doses but not what i expected, im gonna try get a brass pipe thats 2.25 inch and see what happens.

Doses?? wtf??

And what do you mean by "not what i expected", does the car run fine or does it run different to when you had the stock intake pipe?

by dose i think he means like flutter (dose = vl talk ie rubbish)

also why would you go brass? the material used wont change sound and id rather go 3" to 2.25" it would be forcing the air in more aggressive in my opinion.. 2.25" all the way seems like a waste, i mean the outlet for afm is 3" why go smaller??

by dose i think he means like flutter (dose = vl talk ie rubbish)

also why would you go brass? the material used wont change sound and id rather go 3" to 2.25" it would be forcing the air in more aggressive in my opinion.. 2.25" all the way seems like a waste, i mean the outlet for afm is 3" why go smaller??

I hear that the material that the pipe is made of and its thinkness makes a difference to the fluter sound, with a 2.25" pipe the flutter should sound different which is what I want and performance does bother me because im doing it for the sound-experiment

  • 2 weeks later...

Good news, i finally finished the intake pipe an have taken lots of pics, i made it so it fits up to the stock airobx and i can also use a pod aswell

The parts i used were: 1 x 3" 90 degree 600mm long alloy bend, 1 x 3" 45degree silicone joiner, 1 x 3" - 2.25" silicone reducer, a small length of alloy pipe that is the same size as the stock plumback pipe,some radiator hose from super cheap (i think it was the bottom hose from some triumph, it fits the stock plumback line perfectly) some old plumback line that i had leftover from when i installed the RIPS plenum on my old car,some clamps, 1 x local engineer for the welding lol

Heres the pics

The pipe was 600m long so it required a lot of cutting to get to the exact length

100_1817.jpg

100_1818.jpg

I had a little peice of alloy pipe welded on the bottom of the intake pipe which connects to the modified plumback line, i was orginally going to have the plumback line connect to the top of the intake pipe just like it is stock but there wasnt much room so i decided to do it this way.

100_1819.jpg

100_1820.jpg

How it looks from underneath the car

100_1827.jpg

Modified plumback line, this was a bit tricky to make as it had to clear the aircon pump bracket and then curve underneath the intake pipe, it needed lots of cutting, rotating and welding, it was probly the most diffucult part to make work and look stock

100_1829.jpg

100_1830.jpg

100_1831.jpg

100_1834.jpg

100_1832.jpg

100_1823.jpg

100_1824.jpg

100_1825.jpg

The kool thing about it is you cant see it in the engine bay unless you have a really good look

100_1835.jpg

100_1837.jpg

The car runs fine with it , i have only tried it with the stock airbox at the moment and the induction noise does seem to be a bit louder, i have not tried it with a pod yet though.

Edited by nizmo_freek
That looks really good mate, I'm thinking of going back to the standard airbox like you've done. That looks almost factory if the hoses and pipe were black.

Cheers mate, i was originally going to use black joiners and paint the alloy pipe black but i cudnt find any black silcione joiners, you can barely even see the pipe/joiners ,you would never know its there unless you have a real good look.

^^^ Thats exactly what i did to mine as well...good job...only difference is that i bought the pipe with the BOV plumbback and breather fittings already welded on...which made it a pain to adapt to the standard hoses...but nothing a bit of backyard ingenuity couldn't fix...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for the reply mate. Well I really hope its a hose then not engine out job
    • But.... the reason I want to run a 60 weight is so at 125C it has the same viscosity as a 40 weight at 100C. That's the whole reason. If the viscosity changes that much to drop oil pressure from 73psi to 36psi then that's another reason I should be running an oil that mimics the 40 weight at 100C. I have datalogs from the dyno with the oil pressure hitting 73psi at full throttle/high RPM. At the dyno the oil temp was around 100-105C. The pump has a 70psi internal relief spring. It will never go/can't go above 70psi. The GM recommendation of 6psi per 1000rpm is well under that... The oil sensor for logging in LS's is at the valley plate at the back of  the block/rear of where the heads are near the firewall. It's also where the knock sensors are which are notable for 'false knock'. I'm hoping I just didn't have enough oil up top causing some chatter instead of rods being sad (big hopium/copium I know) LS's definitely heat up the oil more than RB's do, the stock vettes for example will hit 300F(150C) in a lap or two and happily track for years and years. This is the same oil cooler that I had when I was in RB land, being the Setrab 25 row oil cooler HEL thing. I did think about putting a fan in there to pull air out more, though I don't know if that will actually help in huge load situations with lots of speed. I think when I had the auto cooler. The leak is where the block runs to the oil cooler lines, the OEM/Dash oil pressure sender is connected at that junction and is what broke. I'm actually quite curious to see how much oil in total capacity is actually left in the engine. As it currently stands I'm waiting on that bush to adapt the sender to it. The sump is still full (?) of oil and the lines and accusump have been drained, but the filter and block are off. I suspect there's maybe less than 1/2 the total capacity there should be in there. I have noticed in the past that topping up oil has improved oil pressure, as reported by the dash sensor. This is all extremely sketchy hence wanting to get it sorted out lol.
    • I neglected to respond to this previously. Get it up to 100 psi, and then you'll be OK.
    • I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
×
×
  • Create New...