Jump to content
SAU Community

Ive Decided To Do Some Slight Mods, What You Guys Think

LatinR33
 Share

Recommended Posts

LatinR33 Experienced

LatinR33

Posted
Posted

After 3 years of owning my R33 and having it stock standard besides a turbo back exhaust ive decided to do some slight modifications and after reading all the informative information through the years have come up with this list.

My parts list so far

R34 SMIC

SAFC 2

R33 GTR fuel pump

Exedy organic clutch

The judge is still out on the boost control option im stuck between a R32 wastegate actuator or EBC. If I go the actuator would the care still go good even though its going to be 5psi on low rpms then 10psi on higher pms??? I dont really want to slice and dice the electronics of the car to take off the two stage system. So any opnions would be appreciated. Also anything else you guys suggest I should do also.

Thanks

R33GOD Grand Master

R33GOD

Posted
Posted (edited)

sounds good mate. are you still running the stock turbo? if you are run a maximum of 11 psi and you will notice the difference :( and i would run a good electronic boost controller so it dosent spike.

good luck :D

Edited by R33GOD
cheez Mentor

cheez

Posted
Posted

to run the 32 actuator all you do is replace the 33 one with the 32, they are a straight swap (exactly the same except for the set spring pressure) and then all you do is bypass your boost solenoid.

to do this you disconnect the vaccum lines from the boost controller and consettina pipe that goes to the turbo and run just 1 vaccum line from the intercooler nipple to the actuator and done, your now running 10psi.

Quick hint tho: get an aftermarket boost gauge installed before you put the actuator in. this will allow a more accurate reading of the boost your running. some r32 actuators have had their springs changed for 15psi or 13psi, and the standard 33 turbo cant run that. Some other sau forum mebers have experienced this, and spikes of 15psi from a changed spring are common so do that first

fEkuaR Experienced

fEkuaR

Posted
Posted (edited)

As Uras said it wont require any ecu modifications. And since you are going to tune the car with a safc 2 it will be perfectly fine and will make full use of the extra boost through the rev range.

Edited by fEkuaR
MANWHORE Grand Master

MANWHORE

Posted
Posted

Nice choice. Nice to see you've done some reading. I'd hit up the 32 actuator (runs as much boost as you'd want to on the stock turbo). don't worry about low boost high boost etc. Just control boost with your foot.

I'd just remove that 2 stage bleeder thing. If the 32 actuator doesn't run enough boost, put in a proper bleeder.

32 actuator - cheap yet effective

LTHLRB Grand Master

LTHLRB

Posted
Posted

just get yourself a propper cooler kit

good choice with fuel pump and ecu

with boost control a HKS actuator for $180 or so from SlidingPerformance will be good boost control

LTHLRB Grand Master

LTHLRB

Posted
Posted

ill correct you :P its good for anything from 6 to 17 psi so far ive tried it, had it on 6 for testing then cranked it to 17 then settled with 13 as i wanted it there :)

Birnie Veteran

Birnie

Posted
Posted

I vote, replace with the R32 actuator, AND keep the solenoid.

10psi low revs and 12psi above 4500..

Seriously, that'd be awesome!

Might be fuel cut issues though on standard ECU but it's worth a think

Boost controllers....

For low boost (say 12 and under) i'd save the cash and get a bleeder. You can have my Turbosmart one for some small $$ and holds boost well enough.

Fluctuates 1 psi across the range but really, does it matter? Noooo.

So don't underestimate the bleeder. They work and are popular because they do work....and they're cheap.

If you're replacing the clutch, only do it cause you have to, as in worn out.

You won't need a super good one until heading over 200rwkws, so if the old one is OK, don't worry about it.

I had 195 rwkws on a 3yr old standard clutch and have never had a problem.

Probably older than 3 yrs old, it's the same clutch it had since the car was imported. Still going strong.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
×
×
  • Create New...