Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Shuffle through:<a href="http://www.uras.com.au/" target="_blank">

</a>

http://www.uras.com.au/

and go to the aero spec bodykit page and you will see the R33 range of kits. at the bottom i thought they had accidentally put a 34 image in the 33 gallery but nope. It's a 33 alright with 34 front wing/ bonet/ lights/ front bar and that would look awsome imo since it has the best of both.

this one:

r334fendercw3.jpg

Problem is that website comes up with code crap instead of infomation for me so i can't read what part on there it is selling??

Anyone have any other info on this 'package' or if it's a one off???????

I found this website with more pics of this conversion, it's called an R334.

http://www.gtfactory.jp/poweredbymax/gallery/album03

sleekness of the 33 with the eyes of the 34. :pwned:

Edited by deant1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/167574-skyline-r33-with-34-front-end/
Share on other sites

its a conversion that kit that is on there. fair few grand indeed, like 8-10 i think some thread was saying a while ago.

its a bit of work cos they have to mod the bonnet to suit and radiator support wall, as well as the guards to suit the doors and front bar. its a f*#k load of work but still looks sexy as.

Seems you can buy the whole kit after all!!!!! looks like a good option since it looks better than an R33 and an R34 imo.

http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=e...e%2Br%26hl%3Den

Front face kit

97,650 Yen front bumpers

81,900 Yen front fenders

115,500 Yen bonnets

292,950 Yen in set price

Rear wide kit

75,600 Yen rear bumpers

103,950 Yen rear fenders

81,900 Yen side steps

243,600 Yen in set price

B334R full kit

Front face kit

Rear wide kit

522,900 Yen in full kit price

so what's that in aussy? like 3 grand for a 34 front end... or 5 grand for a whole GTS T widebody aswell, pretty good i think considering how big the difference is.

Lights from a wreckers? not sure how much they would cost.

R33 GTR with 34 front end = perfection :D

Edited by deant1
dont forget labour, its a big job seeing as most/all of the parts would have to be modified to fit, be around $10,000 total if not more for parts and labour

Umn labour would be just like fitting a standard kit i rekon, do it yourself. Uras said the lights are bolt on and the kit from bee*r is a R33.4 kit so it's already modified and ready to go.

thats a bee-r kit i think? i think someone like garage 13 and stuff do the conversion also. but its a fair few grand. would look nice with some pumped gaurds.

it is a URAS kit, for information try the aussie website www.uras.com.au and email us if you would like more info. They are on special for $600 ATM all you need extra is front lights, bonnet and bumper. i have done a few of these now and it is an easy bolt on affair.

the gaurds are 30mm larger than std. (similar to gtr)

Edited by URAS
it is a URAS kit, for information try the aussie website www.uras.com.au and email us if you would like more info. They are on special for $600 ATM all you need extra is front lights, bonnet and bumper. i have done a few of these now and it is an easy bolt on affair.

the gaurds are 30mm larger than std. (similar to gtr)

so if im thinking right the front bar and bonet is your choice. For example; if you want a gtr 34 front end you buy a 34 bonet and bar and if you want a GTT (no idea why) you would buy a GTT bonet and bar? when you say it's a bolt on affair is there actually much work that needs to be done? Since i live in adelaide and would have to get someone to fit all this for me!! any suggestions?

cheers.

Also URAS, with your front fenders on do the normal sideskirts for the car still fit? example if it's a GTR 33 do GTR33 skirts fit or do they now require modification to fit the URAS fenders?

Edited by deant1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...