Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

i realise the power fc's stoped production for r33 gtst but i know you can still get some if you shop around. What would you expect to pay for them now and is it worth the mark up?

I searched the forums but didnt find what i was after. i heard that once you start tunning for big power the power fc is not the best ECU for the job because you cant adjust boost levels or something to specific measurements (hope this makes sense) is this true? cos ive been saving up for a haltec e11 ($2150) but if i can get a power fc cheaper ill consider it. (im chasing a street tune of around 270rwkw max)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168059-apexi-power-fc-r33-gtst/
Share on other sites

Sorry but, search.

It's not that hard and you will find your answers quicker than waiting for replies in many cases.

I'd pay around 1,200-1,600 depending on condition of the unit and it must come with the hand controller and even that's overpriced fairly stupidly.

Expect to pay that much for discontinued stuff that is still useable.

Click on the link in my SIG about getting power FC's. they are still available and Apexi are still making them BUT they are only available through Apexi.

Click the link below and get yourself one before the demand stops and they stop making them.

If you still need help here is the link and read the second post of the thread all the info you need is there.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=167846

Thanks heaps for that. I think i might go with that place from your sig.

  • 2 months later...

There used to be one in the For Sale section without the hand controller for $900 i think,

THat would be a good option if the condition is ok.

I'd go without the hand controller and cough up the $500-ish for the Datalogit instead.

If the car is tuned well, the hand controller doesn't really serve much purpose but it is nice to look at i guess.

i think i might go for a haltec instead as i would need to buy a better AFM with the power FC so i would be looking at around $1950 all up. I can get a good deal on a new Haltec for $2000 running MAf (or MAF less the one that i dont need an air flow meter)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...