Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey dudes

i have rb20det

full inch exhast

600x300x76 intercooler + piping

pod filter

gtr fuel pump

ecu (mines chip)

and just installed new rebuilt rb25det turbo (by steve murch, new bearings still the same wheels)

now before i installed the rb25det the original rb20det turbo was boosting 12psi (about 0.9 bar)

i ran the car for the first time tonight with the rb25det turbo on and the cars power feels the same but its only boosting 0.55 bar???

Should i be buying a boost tap and cranking this to 1 bar (14.7psi)?? and getting what this turbo can really achieve?

have i done something wrong?

if i need a boost tap wat would be the cheapest recommendation???

any help would be great thx

If you didn't swap the wastgate actuators over, that could be it.

and your settings were different bi 0.35bar which is right on 5psi

R32 standard actuator is set to 10psi.

R33 standard actuator is set to 5psi (....i think with the R33 boost solenoid tweaking it to 7psi over 4500)

If that the case (which it looks like it is), spend 20mins swaping the old actuator back in :domokun:

spot on the money birnie.

Since he won't have the 2 stage solenoid, with just an r33 actuator, it runs about 4.5 psi. since he's got a few mods like ic, exhaust etc, it'll run a bit more - that's the 5.5 psi.

pop the 32 actuator in and i won't be suprised with your extra mods if you get 11-12 psi. she'll rip really hard.

spot on the money birnie.

Since he won't have the 2 stage solenoid, with just an r33 actuator, it runs about 4.5 psi. since he's got a few mods like ic, exhaust etc, it'll run a bit more - that's the 5.5 psi.

pop the 32 actuator in and i won't be suprised with your extra mods if you get 11-12 psi. she'll rip really hard.

is it pretty hard to do???

i know how to take pipes off the car and unbolt stuff but do i need to set anything?

cheers

2 bolts to undo on the actuator side, and a 'C' clip on the end where it attatches to the gate.

Put on the R32 one in reverse order and that's it. It should be a straight swap out.

No settings unless you have a boost controller or something to play with

hey dudes

i changed the unit over

and i reset the ecu

boost is now around 10 - 12 psi

but im now loosing power and the engine is slightly popping at 4500 - 5500 rpm

do i need to replace the injectors or fuel regulator or a retune or something?

cheers

FYI,

The spring in the rb25det acuator is 7psi rated. Which is 0.55bar i think?

The 5psi is controlled by the ecu then after 4500rpm it grounds the black wire coming from the elec boost tap deivce and runs 7psi from the actuator.

I ran a rb20 actuator on an r33 turbo and it would run 5psi then after 4500rpm 10-11psi...I cut the black wire going to the ecu and then it never ran 5psi anymore..

Cheers

fyi mzturbo, it is not set at 7 psi. well, not on the stock turbo anyways. With just my stock turbo, I connectected the stock solenoid system up. Because I had exhaust and cooler, I was getting 9psi.

with just the actuator, I was getting 5 psi.

The solenoid is a bleeder. The actuator is 5 psi, it bleeds a little air above 4500 rpm, so it gets a few more psi. not the other way round.

Edited by MANWHORE
boost is now around 10 - 12 psi

but im now loosing power and the engine is slightly popping at 4500 - 5500 rpm

do i need to replace the injectors or fuel regulator or a retune or something?

cheers

the joys of a misfiring skyline

there a billions of threads on misfire

increased boost = harder for spark to jump on plugs = misfiring

solutions? bringing down gaps on plugs = cheapsolution, you still have a weak ignition system

spitfire coil packs = $560 from sliding, it'll fix it

or you could do your own wiring up of igniter's and leads for $100-300, lots more work, theres a few threads about it here and on other sites

intercool is right,

my car done the same thing when is was in R&R mode as it did when it was misfiring.

I had 1.1mm plugs regapped them to 0.6 and the misfiring went completely..

the R&R a tune sorted that out..

ngk bcpr6es which are a .8 gap. It should help with the mis fire unless your coils are absolutely rooted. If it doesn't then either new coils or one of the many fixes that are posted in the maintainence sticky thread.

Dont worry about injectors and regs for now. fix the miss first.

Dude its just a standard RB25 turbo. You really shouldnt need to do much. Just keep gapping the plugs down until it stops miss firing, assuming that sovles the problem. If it does it still means your ignition isnt up to sratch (which is expected as the car is a good 15+yo). You could maybe just put the fuel reg on to be a little safter.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
    • Perhaps the answer is... more jacks!* *proper jacks must be used.  
    • I NEVER think about using a scissor jack unless there is absolutely no other alternative. f**king things are dangerous, annoying and stupid.
×
×
  • Create New...