Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey dudes

i have rb20det

full inch exhast

600x300x76 intercooler + piping

pod filter

gtr fuel pump

ecu (mines chip)

and just installed new rebuilt rb25det turbo (by steve murch, new bearings still the same wheels)

now before i installed the rb25det the original rb20det turbo was boosting 12psi (about 0.9 bar)

i ran the car for the first time tonight with the rb25det turbo on and the cars power feels the same but its only boosting 0.55 bar???

Should i be buying a boost tap and cranking this to 1 bar (14.7psi)?? and getting what this turbo can really achieve?

have i done something wrong?

if i need a boost tap wat would be the cheapest recommendation???

any help would be great thx

If you didn't swap the wastgate actuators over, that could be it.

and your settings were different bi 0.35bar which is right on 5psi

R32 standard actuator is set to 10psi.

R33 standard actuator is set to 5psi (....i think with the R33 boost solenoid tweaking it to 7psi over 4500)

If that the case (which it looks like it is), spend 20mins swaping the old actuator back in :domokun:

spot on the money birnie.

Since he won't have the 2 stage solenoid, with just an r33 actuator, it runs about 4.5 psi. since he's got a few mods like ic, exhaust etc, it'll run a bit more - that's the 5.5 psi.

pop the 32 actuator in and i won't be suprised with your extra mods if you get 11-12 psi. she'll rip really hard.

spot on the money birnie.

Since he won't have the 2 stage solenoid, with just an r33 actuator, it runs about 4.5 psi. since he's got a few mods like ic, exhaust etc, it'll run a bit more - that's the 5.5 psi.

pop the 32 actuator in and i won't be suprised with your extra mods if you get 11-12 psi. she'll rip really hard.

is it pretty hard to do???

i know how to take pipes off the car and unbolt stuff but do i need to set anything?

cheers

2 bolts to undo on the actuator side, and a 'C' clip on the end where it attatches to the gate.

Put on the R32 one in reverse order and that's it. It should be a straight swap out.

No settings unless you have a boost controller or something to play with

hey dudes

i changed the unit over

and i reset the ecu

boost is now around 10 - 12 psi

but im now loosing power and the engine is slightly popping at 4500 - 5500 rpm

do i need to replace the injectors or fuel regulator or a retune or something?

cheers

FYI,

The spring in the rb25det acuator is 7psi rated. Which is 0.55bar i think?

The 5psi is controlled by the ecu then after 4500rpm it grounds the black wire coming from the elec boost tap deivce and runs 7psi from the actuator.

I ran a rb20 actuator on an r33 turbo and it would run 5psi then after 4500rpm 10-11psi...I cut the black wire going to the ecu and then it never ran 5psi anymore..

Cheers

fyi mzturbo, it is not set at 7 psi. well, not on the stock turbo anyways. With just my stock turbo, I connectected the stock solenoid system up. Because I had exhaust and cooler, I was getting 9psi.

with just the actuator, I was getting 5 psi.

The solenoid is a bleeder. The actuator is 5 psi, it bleeds a little air above 4500 rpm, so it gets a few more psi. not the other way round.

Edited by MANWHORE
boost is now around 10 - 12 psi

but im now loosing power and the engine is slightly popping at 4500 - 5500 rpm

do i need to replace the injectors or fuel regulator or a retune or something?

cheers

the joys of a misfiring skyline

there a billions of threads on misfire

increased boost = harder for spark to jump on plugs = misfiring

solutions? bringing down gaps on plugs = cheapsolution, you still have a weak ignition system

spitfire coil packs = $560 from sliding, it'll fix it

or you could do your own wiring up of igniter's and leads for $100-300, lots more work, theres a few threads about it here and on other sites

intercool is right,

my car done the same thing when is was in R&R mode as it did when it was misfiring.

I had 1.1mm plugs regapped them to 0.6 and the misfiring went completely..

the R&R a tune sorted that out..

ngk bcpr6es which are a .8 gap. It should help with the mis fire unless your coils are absolutely rooted. If it doesn't then either new coils or one of the many fixes that are posted in the maintainence sticky thread.

Dont worry about injectors and regs for now. fix the miss first.

Dude its just a standard RB25 turbo. You really shouldnt need to do much. Just keep gapping the plugs down until it stops miss firing, assuming that sovles the problem. If it does it still means your ignition isnt up to sratch (which is expected as the car is a good 15+yo). You could maybe just put the fuel reg on to be a little safter.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
    • Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85.
×
×
  • Create New...