Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb26dett In R32 Gts-t

URAS_33

By URAS_33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

URAS_33 Contributor

URAS_33

Posted
Posted

I am looking at buying a R32 GTS-t with an RB26DETT conversion in it. Just want to know from people that have driven something like this what they drive like?

I use to have a R33 GTS-t with about 200rwkw.

Are they expensive maintance? Drive well? Not to slugish? Prone to brakage or play ups?

General feedback would be sweet as.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168249-rb26dett-in-r32-gts-t/
Share on other sites
Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

i've always thought that RB26 into a 33 GTST is one of the much underated combos out there. can make an easy 260 rwkw (with stock turbos, stoc injectors, stock cams, stock GTR cooler, stock dump pipes etc). and the weight difference between a RB25T and a RB26TT is not soo much.

however in a 32 GTST I'd prefer a worked RB20 (something like Roy's). it just seems to suit the car better as they are already quite a light, small car and the 20 can still make lots of power, and pull decent revs. plus in the 32, you need to get a 25 box to go with it. the 20 box wont last behind a decent 26.

If you want RWD RB26 I say go 33 GTST, or if you really want a GTST I say stick with the RB20, or do an SR20 swap. SR20 in 32 GTST is pretty sweet.

URAS_33 Contributor

URAS_33

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
Its depends on youre budget dude to be honest.

What the use of the car is

What the power goals are

etc etc.

Give some idea and then people can go from there

Car will be used for everyday use plus a bit of fun here and there

Would eventually love 350+ rwkw (but by that time hopefully it will just be a weekender)

Edited by URAS_33
Gts-t Grand Master

Gts-t

Posted
Posted

Hey BB,

i know u have a habbit of skim reading but he has said he used to own a r33 and is looking at a 32 that is already done.

As long as its not too pricey, has a 33 box in it and doesnt have a hand grenade for the motor i say go for it mate!!!

Be sure to post back here if you do buy it

:D

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

yeah, sorry i missed the bit about "use to have a 33" I looked at his profile and thought he still had one (since it says 33 GTST under "cars").

anyway, I still say either just buy a cheap RB20 GTST (they are crazy cheap now) and work it. or DIY a RB26 into a 33. I just think a 26 in a GTST will spoil some of the good things about the 32 GTST.

Gts-t Grand Master

Gts-t

Posted
Posted

Heh yeah i know how it goes, its like not listening when someone is talking to you, we all have the habit :domokun:

I dont think the weight difference between the two cars would be great enough for it to matter which car they are fitted too. Everyone who converts to rb25 loves it same with the 30. i dont see why the 26 would be any different.

Dont get me wrong i love the 20 to death but at the end of the day its a heavy car for only a 20. Nissan should have just made a 22 instead of the 20 straight up :no:

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
Car will be used for everyday use plus a bit of fun here and there

Would eventually love 350+ rwkw (but by that time hopefully it will just be a weekender)

Ok, so how far is that away?

Because realistically 350rwkw is a 15k adventure, possibly more on the motor alone.

So before you put the motor in it would make sense to rebuild it and put turbos/dumps on it etc which is around the 10-12k mark give or take.

Will save hassle later on if you do it before you put the motor in... because if you wait till it fails (fair chance it will if you keep the stock turbos) then it will cost you more in the long run.

Getting the RB26 to 350+rwkw isnt cheap in any terms.

I've probably spent close to 15k in total for 300-330rwkw and thats just the motor side of it all.

Thats not including anything like brakes/suspension and all the other stuff you need to do.

rob82 Mentor

rob82

Posted
Posted

I had an RB26 in an r32 GTST making 240rwkw with the rb20 box - it will cope with that power easily. Very quick car, should be even quicker once I finish my rb30 bottom end with GT2560r's - then we'll really see how much torque the rb20 box an handle - hopefully 1 full power dyno ramp.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
I had an RB26 in an r32 GTST making 240rwkw with the rb20 box - it will cope with that power easily. Very quick car, should be even quicker once I finish my rb30 bottom end with GT2560r's - then we'll really see how much torque the rb20 box an handle - hopefully 1 full power dyno ramp.

Just to give ya an idea, i shredded my RB20 box with 270rwkw behind my RB25.

After the first 1/4 mile run there was a mild whine.

After the 5th run it was a constant loud whine that just became louder and louder regardless of how it was driven over the next 1000kms or so :sorcerer:

And i didnt even use sticky tyres :rolleyes:

So... i guess i got 2-3 months from the RB20 box before it died a dismal death. You should last a couple dyno runs you'd hope

AD4M Proficient

AD4M

Posted
Posted

have an rb20 box behind my 280kw rb20 with solid centre twin plate clutch for 5 months now, still good just noisy bearings, survived 4 runs with sticky e/t street tyres on prepped track

car came from japan with a rb31/20 combo, handled that aswell

i knwo of anouther 32 here in perth with a 550hp 26 infront of a 20 box, lasted ages aswell

treat it well and it should reward u with not breaking :stupid:

-_-StRyDeR-_- Experienced

-_-StRyDeR-_-

Posted
Posted

thats all good... but then theres the cases of 220kw and the box blowin itself up. i was under the impression these boxes were only good for 200ish?? so what exactly IS the rb20 gearbox good for?

AD4M: g's thats gotta be pushing the ol 20 box... 550hp? shit, was the 20 box's internals frozen and hardend first?

CJ

AD4M Proficient

AD4M

Posted
Posted
thats all good... but then theres the cases of 220kw and the box blowin itself up. i was under the impression these boxes were only good for 200ish?? so what exactly IS the rb20 gearbox good for?

AD4M: g's thats gotta be pushing the ol 20 box... 550hp? shit, was the 20 box's internals frozen and hardend first?

CJ

spot on buddy the box was indeed chriogenicly *spelling* frozen, but he went from that box to a 25, then back to a 20 box that wasnt treated and that is still going strong as far as i know (Was swapped some 6-7 months ago)

-_-StRyDeR-_- Experienced

-_-StRyDeR-_-

Posted
Posted

o ok. i can understand a box that has had its internals frozen handling the power, just not a standard one... we blew up a rb20box last sunday in the drift car (220kw). lol.

im getting all my gearbox's internals harden'd. iv been told it will then hold quite a fair bit more, just unsure on prices :S

CJ

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted
thats all good... but then theres the cases of 220kw and the box blowin itself up. i was under the impression these boxes were only good for 200ish?? so what exactly IS the rb20 gearbox good for?

AD4M: g's thats gotta be pushing the ol 20 box... 550hp? shit, was the 20 box's internals frozen and hardend first?

CJ

cryo treating aint worth the money.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...